Sunday, November 8, 2026 — Gokayama, Toyama Prefecture Today we left Kanazawa to venture into the mountains of Gokayama, where people have been living, working, and adapting to some fairly formidable winters for centuries. Our itinerary promised a UNESCO World Heritage village, mochi pounding, traditional Japanese papermaking, and a visit to a 300-year-old house. What […]
hinoki
Vanille Supermassive: Every Day Deserves a Proper Ending
Last light fills the roomNothing else belongs today—The window opens. Every so often, what begins as an interview with a fragrance quietly becomes an interview with life instead. This turned out to be one of those days. It began, innocently enough, with vanilla. Or so I thought. The opening moved on to suggest something surprisingly […]