Day 17: Table Mountain, Penguins, Poaching, and the Complicated Beauty of the Cape

We began the day at Table Mountain, because when in Cape Town, you go up the mountain. The cable car (technically a rotating gondola) carried us upward into blue sky… and then later, back down into pure whiteness as the fog rolled in like a curtain being drawn. At the top, the landscape felt almost […]


Days 14–16: Wine, Words, Freedom, & the Long Road to Cape Town

The last you saw your fearless traveler, we were being told “Good luck” by the Kruger gate while pinned between elephants. Since then: vineyards, revolutionaries, perfume chemistry, language monuments, prison guards, penguins-to-be, and one very long stretch of early wake-ups. Let’s work backward. Day 16 (Today): Gardens, District Six, and Christo Brand Up at 6. […]


Day 5 p.m.: Sad Truths, A Crash of Rhino (Almost), and a Happy Braai

This afternoon we drove to the Rhino Orphanage, where we learned a great deal about South Africa’s long and heartbreaking history with poaching. Through the 1960s, the numbers were going down, down, down — to roughly 370 rhinos killed in a year. But then, decades later, the crisis surged again after a very specific spark: […]


Next Trip: Africa! (Then Vancouver…then Japan…)

Coming up in February/March, I’m off with Overseas Adventure Travel again, this time to Africa. The overview is HERE, the day-to-day itinerary is HERE. I am doing the pre- and post-trips as well, then staying an extra couple of days in Namibia, at a Cheetah Conservation Organization that Herbert and I have supported for decades. […]