Day 1 (& 2 & 3) London + Paris

Well, I’ve just toodled Leann off to her “locking the gates at the Tower of London” ceremony by way of the best local fish and chips shop in TripAdvisor, downloaded photos from her phone, H’s phone, my phone . . . And now time to put it all together.

So – Hi!!!

Has to be about a year ago, a friend texted me out of the blue saying, “You and Leann want to go to the Olympics?” (My reaction – “Um, whaaaa?”) Turns out that you need to enter a lottery to be able to purchase tickets early on; she had, and had won. This allowed her to purchase sets of 3 tickets (to “lower ranking” events) for 6 people. Leann and I chose Men’s Water Polo, Men’s Trampoline (which may or may not be taking place in a museum), and Men’s Beach Volleyball (at 9 p.m. – on “the beach” . . . At the foot of the Eiffel Tower!) We all wanted to go to the Rowing finals, Women’s Skateboarding finals . . . Then booked a few events together, and a few separately, via Get Your Guide (recommended by the American Express concierge as “Not a scam.”)

As Leann hadn’t been “across the pond,” we decided to take a few days in London first.

Delta had a few issues along the way – first, cancelling Leann’s direct flight … then just cancelling her trip altogether (Me: “Why did I just get an Amex credit for the $ value of your flight?” Leann: “#$@*&^@# Delta!!) … then getting hit by the computer issue last week and having to cancel ?5,000? Flights – but ultimately we both made it! (NOTE: In my opinion, best seat in Virgin Atlantic Upper Class = 1A. Only one person “behind” you, you don’t share an overhead bin, and there is a HUGE “vent” that you can put your things on, just not for take off and landing. Virgin’s lie-flat seats are a little oddly configured, so this made a HUGE difference.)

After a thankfully uneventful passport control and customs, I met Leann with one of my best friends from my 8 years in Washington D.C., Gay (“Half Way”) from the Hash House Harriers. What a surprise! Gay lives down in Kent, and we had discussed possibly trying to meet up in London – she looked at our arrival schedule and decided to meet us at Heathrow! She had a bag of “treats” to welcome me “back” – PG Tips, Hobnobs, Digestives, Cadbury chocolate . . . Yum!

After a bit of up and down and around and skyways and lifts, we met our Uber driver in the Heathrow car park and headed in to London. The sedan was able to fit the three of us, our carryons, and our checked luggage (hat tip to Solgaard’s large “trunk” – wonderful!), and off we went. Leann took the front seat to have a better view (to the left is MI5 as we crossed Vauxhall Bridge), and to let Gay and me catch up on about !35! Years.

We checked in at the Strand Palace and Gay came up to the room with us. We opened the door … and at about half way open, it slammed into the foot of one of the beds! The room is clean, mattresses are comfy, shower head can be raised so only minimal ducking … Who needs a ton of floor space? :-)

We decided to head down to the Art Deco-inspired “gin joint” at the hotel. The atmosphere was fun; each cocktail was inspired in some way by a historic event at The Strand Palace or person involved in its history.

Gay told us that it had been raining before we arrived, and we all wondered how it would affect the Olympics Opening Ceremony, which we thought was starting at just about the time our drinks arrived. (No TVs in the “gin joint.”) We had a super fun evening, though Leann and I were starting to be a bit “worse for wear” jet-lag-wise. Gay had taken a train up from Kent and was staying at a nearby hotel, so we bid her “adieu,” actually thinking we would be able to meet up the next day (Spoiler Alert: Bad cell phone communications…*sigh*)

When we got back to our room, Leann and I changed into jammies (mine, the ones I had “liberated” from Virgin Airlines), turned on BBC, and were just in time to see the Ukrainian athletes slide by in their barge on the Seine. We had missed the beginning with Lady Gaga, the Marie Antoinettes holding their heads in the windows of Versailles, ménage at Trois at ?the library?, all countries before “U”, etc. – but we saw the end of the parade of athletes, the “fashion show,” dancing, “steampunkesque” horse and rider on the Seine (amazing!), fireworks, parkour/ninja delivering the torch, Carl Lewis and Serena carrying the torch in the wavy water (Serena looked seasick!), turn-of-the-last-century-style balloon as the Eternal Flame “caldron,” Celine Dion and, of course, *THE RAIN*! We discussed how we hoped that none of the athletes would come down with a cold! It was *pouring*.

Didn’t sleep great this first night . . . And then, waking up at about 3 a.m. local time, I had a “Waaaaaait a second…” moment, and quietly got out my phone and started doing a bit of research.

I was to start off with a guided tour of the Churchill War Rooms, which is run by the Imperial War Museum. Back when I was in grammar school and high school, my family had a board game that we called the “London Tube” game. I don’t really remember how to play it, but I *do* remember that if you had to get to the IWM (Imperial War Museum), it was *way* down in a part of London that was difficult to get back from, at a station called “Elephant and Castle.” Leann and I had planned that she would go to the IWM, I would do the War Rooms, and we would meet when I was done.

Herbert and I had gone to the IWR the last time we were in London. We both loved it. But my 3 a.m. wake-up was a reminder from far earlier, when I had been in London with my cousin Robin. That memory centered around St. James’s Park – which is far from Elephant and Castle – walking past the War Rooms “entry” and discussing it.

Sure enough – I looked up the War Rooms – and they were *nowhere near* the actual War Museum. Yikes!

When Leann “finally” woke up (about 5 lol), I told her what I had uncovered. We decided to scrap the idea of actually going to the IWM at all (remember the Tube game? It’s out of the way, not near other sights…) She would come with me to the War Rooms (which are, indeed, across from St James’s Park), and do what she had really wanted to do at some point in our travels – head down to the Thames and see Ben Ben, Westminster, etc. Perfect!

We found the only coffee shop open in about a 5 mile radius at that hour (truth!), took a few snaps, and then she was off to the Thames, I was off to the War Rooms. The streets were deserted, though we kept coming across barriers, police, etc. (More on that later.)

Here are a few shots from Leann’s jaunt while I was 12’ underground in Churchill’s War Rooms. (Yes, only twelve feet!) I cropped them to be a bit more artistic, but I would *bet you* if you asked her nicely, she’ll show you the actual photos. :-) And BY the way, did you know that “Big Ben” is NOT the name of the clock tower? “Big Ben” is the name of the bell inside…the clock tower is Elizabeth Tower. Yes, really!

Meanwhile, I was (only) 12 feet underground, doing the tour of the War Rooms. If you think they are a close and claustrophobic rabbit warren now, imagine adding thick cigar and cigarette smoke from every single person! When the “fresh” air came in from outside, it was so polluted with dust, grit, etc from the continual bombing (plus the “usual pollution that was rampant in London until just recently” per our guide), in actual fact, the cigarette and cigar-laden air was considered preferable!

Once Leann and I met back up, we headed over to Buckingham Palace, which was PACKED with people obviously believing they were going to see the Changing of the Guard at 11:00. It was about 10:50 … but it was Saturday (no Changing). Since we were “In The Know,” we headed through a gorgeous sunny St. James’s Park up to Fortnum and Mason to have a scone and some Countess Grey.

We tried to catch a cab from F&M to Raffles, where we were having lunch. First, the driver texted us that we had to walk about 3-4 blocks, because the roads were closed. Once we got in the car and drove about 3 more blocks, he said that we would get there faster if we walked – it would take him about 40 minutes by car but it would take us about 25 minutes to walk. And he charged us the full fare – ah well….

We followed Citymapper through back streets and wound up on the Plaza behind the horse guards – just as they were having a changing of the guards! That was a huge surprise! In case you’re wondering, the guards with the big bearskin helmets are all infantry. They “stopped smiling” during Victoria’s reign. She had lost her husband – the love of her life – early, and from that moment she started wearing black and “never smiled again.” The guards in “sympathy” also started looking more stalwart. It’s currently $200 if you are caught smiling, which goes directly to the Royals. Leann and I talked about it being like a Secret Shopper in a store – perhaps they have “Secret Tourists Snapping Photos”??

When we finally made it to Raffles, we accidentally wound up in the Drawing Room versus the Guard’s Bar, and had a spendy high tea. It was great, just unexpected. Our waiter was particularly nice. He was from Portugal. Actually told us he had been almost a shut-in computer guy, but after COVID he decided to get into the hospitality industry and “learn how to” talk to people, etc. He now was exceptionally proud to be a waiter at Raffles.

Turns out the Amex concierge had booked us in the Drawing Room though I’d asked for the Guard Room Bar. When I went to the Guard’s Bar to apologize that we hadn’t shown up for our reservation, they felt bad for us and gave us a glass of champagne, gratis. :-)

There had been an *enormous* protest when we were at Raffles. The maitre d’ told us that they had been told to “plan for” two protests today, but had found out that morning that there would be three. That’s why *so* many roads were closed.

The bartender at the Guard Bar gave us a “back way” to avoid the protest, closed roads, etc on the Strand, which we followed. It took us under the Embarkment and then into a sweet little park that ended right behind the Savoy, which was across the street from our hotel. Score!

Police laden down with machine guns across their chests = a completely different visual than anything I expected in the U.K. As most folks know, generally Police in Britain do not have guns. The idea is that if a policeman is shot, “everyone knows” that the police do not have guns, so it’s far, far more egregious than other countries.

We walked back to the hotel; Leann took a nap while I started downloading photos for this post! The wifi here is pretty slow, so it’s been a bit of a slog.

She headed out about two hours ago for her “Key Ceremony” locking the doors of the Tower of London – and she wanted to get a “fish and chips” while alone (since I’m allergic to fish). She did text me that she made it, had a great time, and was checking off another thing on her “bucket list” – a ride in a black cab with “suicide doors” on the way back to the hotel.

As an enormous surprise, a beautiful cheese and fruit plate, and champagne, showed up at our door, courtesy of my friend’s family, as a thank you for helping them through some personal sorrow. What an amazing surprise! I am now completely happy and completely stuffed!

Tomorrow: British Museum meeting up with another friend from the U.S. who moved back to the U.K., our “actual” high tea at The Langham, some other things that I’m forgetting about (lol) and a Jack The Ripper tour in the evening!

Cheers!

Gyms & COVID-19

We have to close our gym! What can we do about our lease obligations? What about income?

1.       Quickly consider alternative/home-based workouts. Sometimes necessity has to be the mother of invention. Consider setting up a “virtual gym” for your members who may also be stuck at home because of school closings, work closings, etc. If you can still actually access your gym (i.e., you are not under a “shelter in place” order), set up a camera and do a Live Stream. Perhaps do it outside! (Maybe cajole your members outside, too!) Consider loaning out some of your equipment for the duration of any closing (keep a very good list of who took what, of course!) Maybe come up with “prizes” (case of Corona, anyone?) for members who can show that they kept up with their workouts – what about a dedicated “hashtag” related to your gym on social media? How about a prize for the biggest [weight loss/bicep increase/squat hold] differential during your shutdown? This is likely to be your best bet to keep your income flowing – keep your members happy and keep them working out. Your head too full to come up with workouts on your own? Always remember that Crossfit® HQ has your back 😊 www.crossfit.com/workout/

2.       Consider novel payment options. Perhaps, as an alternative to suspending monthly memberships, give your members the option to continue to pay while you “add more time onto” the “end” of their memberships. At our gym, we don’t have “punch cards,” we have drop-in fees (highest $), monthly fees (worthwhile if you’re coming more than once a week), and then annualized fees, paid monthly (lowest rate by far). When given the option today, annualized members seem overwhelmingly to be choosing not to suspend. As Crossfit members, we love our affiliates – give your members choices to help you that are still beneficial to them. Keeping payments flowing during the crisis should be your main goal – give something in the future to smooth your situation now. Even the promise of a Mexico-inspired (Corona, remember?) member party at the end of all this will keep community spirits up.

3.       Keep updated on your mayor’s proclamations. For example, as I write this, our local mayor and two others in different states’ cities (found in a cursory Google search) are stating that landlords cannot penalize tenants (including commercial tenants) that are unable to make their rent during the pandemic. Be sure you understand what might be available to you, and what you need to do to avail yourself of it. This might also include checking out any tenant organizations that cover commercial leases, as well as your local small business organizations. While it might seem unpalatable to take out a loan due to this situation, it is a better choice than to get behind on your obligations – things inevitably wind up snowballing.

4.       Read your lease. In general, to get a break as a tenant, you’d need to prove that either (i) your obligations under the lease have “substantially changed” so that it’s impossible to perform the lease (deeming the lease “frustrated”); or (ii) that a global pandemic like COVID-19 fits under a “force majeure” boilerplate in your lease.

Unfortunately, though not surprisingly, most leases do not have protections like this. Most (if not all) leases are drafted by the landlord. If you didn’t involve an attorney in your lease negotiation, it’s virtually guaranteed that your contract is “silent” on protections for you as a tenant. Moreover, in general, commercial leases require damage/destruction to the premises itself for rent suspension to be triggered under (i) in the above paragraph – and a pandemic doesn’t fit the bill.

What about (ii), force majeure? Force Majeure provisions address “Acts of God” – events “beyond the reasonable control of a party” that prevent that party from performing their contractual obligations. A typical “Act of God” is a hurricane, earthquake, or a flood.

 Sadly, it’s important to note that, even if a contract has a force majeure clause, nearly all of them exempt ”monetary obligations” (such as rent payments). But, it can’t hurt to take a look: If your contract has one, and it includes language that says “including, but not limited to…” then perhaps you can suspend your performance (in the case of a lease, this would be paying rent) until you can re-open your doors. However, this doesn’t actually excuse your payments . . . it just allows you to push your payment forward by the amount of time it takes to right yourself (or for the number of days stated in the contract – some state that you can push your obligations forward, for example, “the lesser of” the amount of time that it takes to right yourself, or [10] days).

As an aside, if you do happen to find a force majeure clause in a contract, also know that an Act of God clause can’t protect non-performance if the force majeure event occurs after the delayed performance; there are also always very specific notice provisions. 

If you’re actually planning to just throw up your hands and default on your contractual obligations, it really is strongly advisable not to do this. If your lease has an “attorneys’ fees” clause (nearly all of them do), it will cost your landlord nothing to sue you if/when they win – you’ll be paying all their fees and court costs. And… since you have your lease out… definitely check for things like: (i) acceleration clauses (which state if you are ever late, the entirety of the lease term’s payments are due immediately); (ii) attorneys’ fees clauses; (iii) penalties/interest clauses; (iv) jurisdiction clauses (did you agree to an inconvenient forum, and law that isn’t tenant-friendly?); (v) personal guarantee clauses (where, even if you’re incorporated, you are personally liable for the payments – a/k/a the “lose your house” clause); (vi) etc.

5.       Don’t forget to look at your insurance. While Force Majeure provisions, in general, allow a party to suspend performance until a catastrophic event is over, what covers loss of business due to general fear, governmental direction to engage in “social distancing,” or orders to shelter in place/stay home? This will severely impact many “brick and mortar” businesses, such as bars, event venues, restaurants, theaters, and, of course, gyms.

While some business insurance/business interruption policies cover disruptions, in general, they cover loss of earnings due to an ‘insured peril,’ which also require property damage. While Contingent Business Interruption (CBI) insurance is generally broader, you would have needed “Back to the Future” foresight to add this rider onto your business interruption insurance before the occurrence. Unfortunately and unsurprisingly, after the global outbreak of SARS in 2002-2003, many insurers have excluded viral outbreaks from standard business interruption policies, and coverage may only be procured through special endorsements/riders purchased at the time of coverage. (In other words – it’s too late now, sorry ☹ )

In sum, while insurance covering non-nature-related “interruptions to business” (such as strikes, lockouts, or down utilities) can compensate both parties during the period at issue, it’s unlikely (without physical loss or property damage) that business interruption and other current forms of coverage will compensate either landlords or tenants for loss of business or rent merely because the government mandates that potential customers stay home.

6.       Throw yourself on the mercy of the courts? Since your lease is likely silent on force majeure, and your insurance likely doesn’t call out “COVID-19” directly, if your landlord sues you, the courts in your jurisdiction will determine whether you win based on the foreseeability of the event and the jurisdiction’s statutes/ precedents. But don’t hold your breath. For example, in an insurance case where an event organizer intended to lease space at the Jacob Javits Center in Manhattan shortly after 9/11, but the City of New York decided to utilize the Javits Center as an operational hub and therefore “ordered” it closed to non-first responder personnel, the courts held that the event organizer’s insurance only covered “direct physical loss or damage,” not loss of business. Penton Media, Inc. v. Affiliated FM Insurance Co., 245 F. App’x 495, No. 06-4215 (2007).

Be safe – and live up to your side of contracts, even if you need to pay everyone a little versus paying nothing. If you wind up in court, while I can’t guarantee it, this is likely to be looked at more favorably than just throwing up your hands and hiding your head in the sand(bags).

The information provided in this article does not, and is not intended to, constitute legal advice; instead, all information and content are for general informational purposes only.  This article may not constitute the most up-to-date legal or other information. Readers should contact their attorney to obtain advice with respect to any particular legal matter.  No reader should act or refrain from acting on the basis of this article without first seeking legal advice from counsel in the relevant jurisdiction.  Only your individual attorney can provide assurances that the information contained herein – and your interpretation of it – is applicable or appropriate to your particular situation.  This article does not create an attorney-client relationship. All liability with respect to actions taken or not taken based on the contents are hereby expressly disclaimed. This article is provided AS IS; no representations are made that it is error-free.

5k Training Tips for Beginning Runners on a Busy Schedule by Julie Morris

We’re lucky enough to have another post by Coach Julie! You may remember our first post by Coach Julie on Stress Management, which you can re-read HERE. Today, she’s talking training tips to get you on the road to your first 5k!

Running is a fantastic way to keep in shape, but it can be a tricky activity to pin down when you’re a beginner. Not only do you have to figure out how to stay safe and make sure your body is well taken care of, you also have to find time to get in the amount of running that’s right for you. Busy professionals sometimes have a difficult time with this, especially when they decide they want to start training for a 5K race. Time management is important, but fortunately there are several simple things you can do to fit in some training.

Planning wisely is crucial, since your body needs time to cool down and recover. When you have a busy schedule, it’s important to prepare for every aspect of your workout, including the downtime. It’s also a good idea to start out slowly, which will allow you to focus on your body’s strengths and work on your weaknesses without risk of injury. And you’ll also need the right gear, including a fitness tracker, to help monitor your progress.

Here are a few tips on how to start training as a 5K runner when you have a busy schedule.

Use tech to your advantage

Technology can be extremely useful for beginners who want to figure out the best way to start training. Fitness trackers, apps, and smart watches are great tools to help you keep track of your progress, your health, and even the amount of calories you’re burning, meaning you’ll be using your time wisely each time you go for a run. They can even act as motivation and can help to keep you safe; for example, the latest model of Apple’s smartwatches, the Apple Watch Series 5, includes features like an electrocardiogram and has an SOS feature if you should find yourself in trouble while on a run. Meanwhile, the Fossil Gen 5 smartwatch delivers smooth performance and has a battery-saving mode for longer battery life. (Note from Sandy: I happen to have a Withings Steel HR smartwatch, and I LOVE IT. It has fantastic performance, is easy to use, and the battery lasts for weeks! It also “looks like a watch” which to me is a huge benefit. I have the black face/rose gold model, so even the black “notification” screen looks just like a regular watchface unless a notification is coming through. Because I had the initial generation of this watch, which had a flaw, they sent me the Withings SmartScale as an “apology” (and a new watch) – so that also links into the app. It doesn’t do all the fancy “close your rings” stuff that an Apple smart watch does, but because it actually looks like a classy non-digital, non-“smartwatch” watch, I’m willing to forego some of those “bells and whistles.” Links not tied into any sort of affiliate deal, btw.)

Focus on your recovery

It’s essential to make sure your body can recover after each run, especially as you start to train and are running more often. Staying hydrated and waiting at least three hours after eating before you go for a run are great tips, and you should also ice your muscles to keep soreness at bay. Keep your diet in mind as well; eating the right foods like bananas and plain yogurt can help you keep your body on track and will boost your energy and fuel your muscles. Make sure you integrate those foods into your daily routine; bring your own snacks to work so you won’t have to rely on unhealthy vending items, and start doing meal prep for the week so you can save time.

Come prepared

Running and training for marathons can be time-consuming activities, especially if you don’t have the right equipment beforehand. Come prepared with the right clothing, shoes, and other gear so you can get through the run without any distractions or issues. If you’re going to be a serious runner, it’s a good idea to choose shoes for your foot type (narrow or wide). Break them in beforehand, as well. Also, keep in mind that outside factors can affect your run, such as weather and terrain.

Run when you can

When you’re a busy professional, sometimes you have to seize the opportunity to run whenever you can. This might mean going out for a jog on your lunch break, or waking up earlier than normal to run, so think about the option that makes the most sense for you. Some people don’t do well with a routine that doesn’t have a schedule attached to it, but when you’re busy, sometimes you have to learn to work around things a little.

Training to be a 5K runner is a lot of hard work, but it can be very rewarding at the same time. By utilizing the tools at your disposal, you can ensure that you’re able to keep your body safe and in great shape as you go. Keep comfort in mind as much as possible so you won’t cut down on your run time with aches and pains.

Julie Morris is a Life and Career Coach, and can be found at JulieMorris.Org.

The New Normal

I mentioned in my previous post that we had met with Michael Broffman at the Pine Street Clinic to get our protocol during the “cyberknife” treatment and as an overview for what we need to think about not only at Sanoviv, but also into the future. Pine Street Clinic has specialized in evidence-based integrative medicine since 1982. These are my notes from that meeting, which I think are incredibly instructive for the “New Normal After Cancer.”

Broffman advised us to treat our month at Sanoviv as a place to get into a routine….to learn the curriculum and then carry it back in a “return home” program. He strongly suggested sticking with Sanoviv’s meal program – mostly vegetarian with low net carbs. He said that our follow-on plan should involve committing to, for 24 months after returning from Sanoviv, eliminating red meat, pork, lamb, etc. (whether or not organic/grass fed). Basically to stick with chicken (if 100% sustainably sourced), eggs (same), and seafood (ditto). He advised us to eat what we have in the freezer now (which we are – we are calling these two weeks our MeatFest(TM)!) 😉

Broffman reiterated that the Quantity that we should consume is directly related to Fitness. So, on any day we’re “desk bound,” we need to stay Vegan on that day. If we’re doing Strength work, we can have some animal protein. (There’s more below about “Fitness.”) That said, the human animal is an omnivore, and needs meat. Just not as much as the “now typical” American diet gives it — especially as most “so-called meat” is produced by BigFarm and contains the stress of animals “engineered” to get as fat as possible in record time . . . who live in terrible conditions, are fed on suboptimal feed, and are not treated as sentient beings.

Vitamin C IV treatment: This is something that is done at Sanoviv, and we are to get hubby’s calculated Vitamin C blood saturation. How this apparently works is that your target saturation is 350 nanograms/milliliter. So each time you do the IV, they will test to see how much they have to give you to get you to this ultimate saturation. If you get the IV and afterwards you’re only up to 150, next time they will give you more, until they know exactly what it takes to get you to 350 nanograms/milliliter. We are to bring that back, and then continue with this protocol.

Vitamin C + Doxycycline: There have been a number of published protocols of adding doxycycline (pills) during the Vitamin C IV, to deal with cancer stem cells. It has recently been shown that, like heart stem cells, bone stem cells, etc. there are actually cancer stem cells. Unfortunately, they are not responsive to chemotherapy. If you happen to hit one with radiation or cut one out with surgery then it’s gone – but the only systemic treatment for cancer (chemo) doesn’t kill them. Unfortunately, at some point the cancer stem cells “wake up, look around” and realize that there is no cancer in the body – and then busily start to make it. Vitamin C plus doxycycline is the latest leading edge fight against cancer stem cells. Although doxycycline wipes our your gut biome, etc., it’s a trade off that could be worth it, in the short term, as the Vitamin C IV taken with doxycycline is showing in trials to kill the cancer stem cells. Unfortunately you can’t just “get doxycycline over the counter” in the U.S., so if we are able to obtain any in an international pharmacy we should go for it – otherwise, try to see if the doctor at Sanoviv will add this to the Vitamin C IV protocol.

OM85 (“Broncho-vaxom”): This is an immunostimulant used with young children and old folks basically everywhere BUT the United States for lung issues. It boosts the immune system, working to increase a person’s natural defenses against a variety of respiratory pathogens. It is an oral treatment consisting of eight different strains of (dead) bacteria, so it sort of works like a vaccine to create an immune response in the lungs. There have been a LOT of papers written about it recently, in relation to potential uses in lung cancer, and OM85 is likely over-the-counter in Mexico. About a decade ago, an Italian cancer doctor published that 7.5 mg/day (10 days on, a month off, for 3 months) worked as a treatment for lung cancers. (NOTE: I did some internet sleuthing to try to find the article and link it, but without the name, came to a dead end.)

Beating Cancer

              The way to look at the whole “post-cancer” situation is as follows. Think of a timeline:

—————X->->->——————–Y->->->->—————–

X is where your immune system is. Y is where the cancer is. Each is moving forward, but if you can’t close the gap, you’re never actually well. “Catching up” is not the same as “Caught up.” This is the biology of how things work.

Western medicine basically says “We will buy you time, as you catch up.” In other words, they knock out the Y with, say, chemo. The problem is, that the chemo also sets your immune system (the X) back. The issue is that Western medicine “attacks.” And “Attacking” the disease is not the same as “Preventing” the disease.

Alternative therapies try to narrow the gap. The whole idea is to get the X in FRONT of the Y. The immune system must be “competitive” and ready for anything, not always behind and just working hard to catch up.

And this means lifestyle changes.

Post-cancer life must be organized around the strategy of narrowing the gap between X and Y, with the hope of jumping the X in front of the Y. And always remember that — while “giving up” things that are suboptimal for health – having good health is not a punishment. All the suggestions here might not be what you are doing now – or might mean not doing what you “want to do” with regard to eating, drinking, exercise and the like – but, post-cancer, one must persist for at least the next couple of years along this strategy, to stay in “synch” with the idea of closing the gap between the immune system and what it’s fighting . . . and then (hopefully) getting in front of it.

The Abscopal Effect:

The Abscopal Effect has been proven in trials and double-blind studies. It is a combination of radiation and immunotherapy wherein treating a cancer causes untreated tumors to disappear or shrink concurrently, outside the scope of the treatment. This has particularly been seen when Stereotactic Radiosurgery (“SRS” or “cyberknife”) treatments are the “radiation” part of the equation.

Cyberknife plus Immunotherapy leads to a systemwide immune response. The question is how to make this happen. Western medicine is trying to use various methods:

a.           CAR T Cells: In this protocol, T-cells (“fighter” cells) are taken out of the patient’s body and modified to produce specific structures called chimeric antigen receptors (CARs). Basically, they take your T-cells and expose them to your cancer, rewarding them for attacking that cancer. Then these fighters are grown and re-injected in the 100s of millions back into you. This has led to the most durable remissions.

b.           USC/Victor Longo: This is the fasting program that I discussed in my previous blog. It is basically a three-day water fast. In trials, what happens is this: During the 1st day, your body fights you (“Eat, Eat, EAT you IDIOT, I’m HUNGRY!”). On the 2nd day, your body’s “cleaner” cells cleans up anything that they see that is “easy to clean up,” because they don’t have any digesting, etc. to do. Then, the third day is the charm. On the third day, all the easily-cleaned things are cleaned up, there’s still no digestion going on, and so your “cleaner cells” go back over everything, and start going after older immune cells, terminating them. Think of it this way:

Cancer Cell

—X1—>—X2—->—X3—>—X4—>—X5—>—X6—>

In the example above, the T cells (X1 to X6) flow past the cancer cell. T-cell X5 is a month or so old, and a few days from being terminated by the body. X4 is only a day old. X4 is a “new, aggressive fighter.” X4 says to X5, which has passed the cancer by, “Hey, isn’t that a suspicious cell?” The X5 cell says “Yeah Sonny, I see it, but it’s a big body out there, and we have other things to do. We’ll attack it later.” But then it doesn’t. Since the T-cells speak to one another, the X4 has just “learned” from the X5 that it’s “not that important” to attack the cancer cell.

In the fasting protocol (and actually also the trained CAR T-Cells mentioned above), old cells like X5 are wiped out – so the newbie X4 cell doesn’t learn to “not attack” the cancer cell (or, in the CAR T-cell protocol, is specifically taught TO attack that cell). This means that the new T-cells work more effectively against the cancer.

While the USC/Longo/3 day fast protocol DOES drop your immunity a bit, the next day, when you start eating again, the trials have shown an unprecedented reboot of the T-cells and their ability and desire to fight the cancer.

There is also a “5 day fast-mimicking diet” for folks who just won’t do a 3-day water fast. But as my hubby did it during chemo, and the actual 3 day total fast protocol is the one being shown to have the best effect, we should presume that this becomes part of our long-term protocol.

USC/Longo recommends that every day you have a 14-hour interval of not eating/drinking (except water). While some are pushing this to 16 hours (in other words, an 8-hour eating “window”), the studies have been done on the 14 hour interval. Since Sanoviv operates on this schedule, this needs to be the “after Sanoviv” protocol for eating/drinking. THEN, every week, one day a week, have breakfast, then do a 24-hour water fast until the next breakfast. Just pick a day and do it. (Or dinner to dinner – whatever.) Finally, every 7-10 weeks, do the full 3-day protocol. This is what the research shows is optimal for killing the most cancer cells and revitalizing T-cells to their “fighting best.” Just pick the days, put them on the calendar, and get them done.

In sum: 14 hour daily interval of no eating, no drinking except water (or you can see it as a “10 hour eating window”). One day a week, eat a meal (e.g., breakfast), then just water to the same meal (e.g., breakfast) 24 hours later. Once every 7-10 weeks, full 3 day water fast.  

While the Abscopal Effect was incredibly important to try to obtain, unfortunately, as the SRS treatment was being done via our traditional Western medical situation, the Chief was unable to get the permissions to even do a “trial of 1” using the SRS with one of the additions above. Just not enough time to get it “through the system.” If, however, someone reading this is interested, the interventional radiologist Dr. Jeanne Stryker in Solana Beach does SRS/cyberknife plus immune therapy using either Keytruda or Optivo.

Supplements: Broffman prescribed a host of supplements for the SRS (as he had during chemo). We will receive an abbreviated protocol for the time that we’re at Sanoviv and when we return, he will re-evaluate. I would say what was prescribed, but I don’t feel comfortable doing that. If you’re in a situation where you want to explore ways to use integrative medicine for fighting what ails you or just reaching optimal health, please consider contacting Broffman at Pine Street. He has clients internationally, and in my opinion (as your first visit is about 90 minutes) is incredibly inexpensive for what you get ($500 for the first consultation and then any follow-on supplement changes, etc. – if your situation changes drastically and you need another full consultation, $400 for each). And – yes – they take plastic.

Fitness:

a.           Strength. Hubby needs to be doing strength work at least 30 minutes, 2x/week. Broffman likes the “Super Slow” protocol, which uses ARX equipment. Unfortunately, this is only available in San Francisco and Emeryville. There is a place in Mill Valley that uses MRX equipment, the pre-ARX equipment. ARX hasn’t caught on so much, because you have to lease it – you can’t own it like MRX. “Super Slow” was originally proposed by Arnold Schwartzenegger – i.e., having resistance in both parts of a lift. By way of example, pressing up in a bench press, but having another person there that is then “pulling up” on the bar when you’re trying to put it back down to your chest. See HERE for example. Hubby needs to concentrate on putting mass on, which is active tissue that will work for you, versus fat – and especially “toxic fat” – which works against you.

b.           Walking. At least one day a month of “long slow distance” walking is required. This means walking, for example, from home to San Francisco, and taking the ferry back. This should take a few hours. This will become a meditation – you “stop talking in your head” and just walk. Hubby is to keep doing the “quicker” (30 minutes) or “mid-range” (hills) daily, but needs to incorporate a long-slow distance once a month too upon returning from Sanoviv. As he is currently on disability, this needs to be his “work.”

c.           Swimming. Broffman particularly recommends taking a “holistic swimming” class. This is run by Russ Monsell in Tiburon of DynamicVitality.com on Tuesdays – you show up with money, a bathing suit, and a towel and he will run you through the basic/beginner class. The idea is that swimming is very helpful to your immune system, but ONLY if you’re not constantly fighting it. We are not “meant to” live in the water, and our system knows it, so is constantly, in the background, “fighting” it. The idea is to develop breathing and stroke dynamics that mimic what a creature that really lives in the water will do. No neck movement – just roll to breathe – low kicking – etc. This has been proven to immensely improve the immune system; however, it is relaxing at an immune level only if you are not defensive. You must “swim like a marine mammal” not like a “land mammal.” Your body has to think “I live here in the water.” Swim for meditative cardio.

d.           Baseline. Upon returning from Sanoviv, we are to get a baseline of skeletal muscle, fat (brown v white), etc. The company that does this, BodySpec, uses a modified DEXA scan. It is $45, and will give you metrics that you can then try to improve upon. It is on Broadway in San Francisco. They also have a mobile van that they take out sometimes, but the best metrics in the Bay Area are from this company.

The idea here is to have a baseline so that you can see as you make yourself more competitive with the disease – as you “catch” the X “up to” the Y, with the goal of “jumping” it.

Stress Reduction:

This is another mandated piece.

a.           Meditation. Broffman particularly likes the 10 day meditation routine retreat offered free worldwide from DHAMMA.org. The closest to us is in Yosemite in North Fork. It is the same program worldwide, just different languages. At the retreat, you are introduced to the “technology” of meditating. It is a silent retreat, Vipasenna style. It is an extremely popular program, however, so getting on their list is important. They will send out when the enrollment will “open” for the program, and it is full with a long waiting list 2 hours later.

                             Another suggestion locally is the Sonoma Mountain Zen Center. On Saturdays, they are open to the public. They are similar to Green Gulch, but ONLY meditation (no pottery, tea classes, gardening, etc.) It’s the standard: meditation, sitting, dharma talk, soup and salad. A very pretty place, up in Sonoma, acres of farmland. The owner has run the center for decades with his wife and his kids, some of whom are monks there.

Taking A Deeper Step, and Changing the Narrative.

After you try a few of these out, your responsibility will be to figure out “What’s the next deeper step after this for me?” Just go with whatever sounds intriguing, but with the goal of “Changing the Narrative.” By way of example, there is a group in Santa Cruz called 1440 Multiversity. 1440 is the number of minutes in a day. They have a protocol for “optimizing” the minutes. However, he finds it stressful to think of it this way – as in “don’t waste any minute!” Perhaps instead, think of it as how many hours you have in a week – block out when you’re going to be eating, sleeping, walking, fasting, yoga, meditating, whatever – and then calendar, and stick to it like it’s your job, to be sure that you “do them all” and don’t let anything slide, at least for the next 24 months. This often happens. You need to keep the goal in mind of “jumping the Y” – in other words, to get your whole “being” in “front of” the cancer instead of trying to catch up, or doing things that are suboptimal for the best health, which sets you back as your body rids itself of whatever you just did. (You know, the fun things like drinking wine and eating red meat!)

Changing The Narrative:  

If you change any aspect of an adverse story, it will affect your immune system. (Example: If you address what’s behind PTSD to help the body/mind to stop fighting that, the body can then move on to fight other things.) Changing the narrative affects the immune system and your entire micro-environment. And chronic stress (caused by thoughts or “dwelling on an unproductive narrative”) are particularly bad.

              So how do you get a New Story? It has been clinically proven that Chemistry follows Thoughts . Stressful thoughts -> Stressful chemistry -> Bad things happen. Change the story? Change the chemistry.

              Psychoactive plants: While meditation practice can be helpful, the biggest jump start that is being trialed now is using psychoactive plants/chemicals. Johns Hopkins is currently the leading researcher in this area, and they are comparing synthetic versions of chemicals (psilocybin, LSD, iowaska) with the “plant” versions. The reason that using a synthetic version is preferred is (a) you can be absolutely positive about the dose and (b) you don’t denude the planet of all these plants. The downside is the plants may have some element in them that you miss in the synthesized version. There are some iowaska farms now, but not a lot. So to optimize, you have to go synthetic.

              There was a researcher from Johns Hopkins recently who spoke in Mill Valley at a tiny facility and it overflowed at 400 people. He stated that they have now (a) actually quantified the “mystical experience” scientifically and (b) the dose is over 80% effective in helping people shift their internal narratives by actually having a “mystical experience.” He laid out the tenets of what a “mystical experience” is, and they then trialed whether folks were having them or not. They found that 25 mg of Ketamine produced a “mystical experience” 80% of the time. This is the only legal drug – and of course, it’s just another tool. This might be something to consider around September.

How can you tell if you’re making progress?

One of the best ways is outside observation. You want to aim for “invisibility.” You want to create an “unrecognizable person” compared to the person that harbored an environment that led to the cancer. Also think of Stoicism, and books like Essentialism — You want to stop expending energy unless it is absolutely required of you. Spending that energy means that you can’t spend it on other things (like healing).

How do you “become unrecognizable”? Imagine that there is an “A” list and a “B” list of your entire life. The “A” list contains every single experience you’ve had; the complete set of all life experiences and occurrences. It includes birth, marriage(s – for my hubby), schools, and all the genomics and epigenetics that led to cancer – plus having cancer. To create the “B” list, you just want to take things from the “A” list, but as few as possible. Let the rest go. Stop giving energy to them, give them up, and get them out of your “story.”

Let’s say that means that you bring over 3 of the 10 things that led your body to express the cancer. That’s still going to be okay – because it took all 10 to get there. The idea here is to “shed” the things from the “A” list that aren’t leading to optimal health. Remember to just think “Change is good,” even if you don’t know what that change looks like from where you’re standing in the Present.

Winter will be key. It is the season of the bladder and kidney. So this is all prep for that. Even though there is no “bladder organ” after the surgery, there is a re-built one, and there are 57 points on the bladder channel and meridian that are still active. Those come into their season in winter. So this all needs to be teed up for then.

Sleep:

This is awkward, as, with the neobladder, one has to empty the bladder every two hours (it’s not “bladder material” so if it overstretches, it doesn’t bounce back). What about substances to “Help” you sleep? When asking about using THC/CBD, we were reminded that, while THC improves the “sleep latency” (i.e., the time to fall asleep is shortened), it disrupts the actual sleep cycle. So you don’t get the same restorative/deep sleep. CBD does NOT do this. The goal here is to optimize the REM cycle. Moreover, keeping track is important, because you need to quantify to be able to see what’s working and what’s not. Perhaps find an app, or a sensor, but it is important to really see how sleep is going, and then to address issues. We’re reminded that the temperature of the room for sleep should be low 60s at the highest, and that dropping by 2 degrees F kicks sleep in. No electronics/TV, take some time on getting into bed to “review the day” and get ready to sleep – basically, have a sleep routine.

              There have been studies that show that 2 hours before you “know that an alarm will go off,” you stop having quality sleep. However, if you tell someone that you will wake them up “some time” during the night (not giving them an exact time), they NEVER have REM sleep. As such, the 2 hour “alarm” to get up to void the bladder is not optimal, but it’s necessary. Reminded to ensure that it doesn’t affect my sleep. (NOTE: It usually doesn’t, but if hubby doesn’t get it right off, it WILL wake me up, and then I have to get out of bed. And hence those 4 a.m. Facebook and Instagram posts!)

So, there you go – those are my notes from our second visit to Pine Street. I also have notes from our first visit, but they’re really geared towards the particular type of cancer we were facing (as well as the phased protocol for dealing with chemotherapy), so I thought that these ones might be more universally interesting. As a final tidbit, I’d like to suggest another podcast listen: it’s 5 Ways To Heal Yourself With Dr. Kelly Turner from The mindbodygreen Podcast.

Any questions?

The Cancer Caregiver Life

In just over a week, my husband and I will be going to The Sanoviv Medical Institute for three weeks. I will be updating F&F (friends and family) via this blog on what goes on there. If you just happened upon this blog because you’re searching at 3:00 a.m. for the blogs of other cancer caregivers – well, that’s been me for a year. This is sort of a “precursor” blog to the set of Sanoviv blog posts that will follow – but here’s a bit about my journey.

For more information I can recommend a lot of books and medical articles, but The Emperor of All Maladies is fascinating as the “history” of cancer, going back to ancient Egypt.

We found out about my husband’s bladder cancer about this time last year. I won’t go into the details, but he had been having issues that he hadn’t discussed with anyone, so by the time it was discovered, the tumor was big. After we received the Western medicine protocol, I immediately contacted Michael Broffman at the Pine Street Clinic. Broffman has been in the cancer “arena” for decades and so not only has a big list of what specific oncologists “will and will not do” when it comes to supplements, non-Western treatments, etc., he also (if your oncologist is on his “list”) can help you with how to talk to your oncologist about your situation and your potential desire to use integrative treatments.

Unfortunately when I finally “conned” my husband into seeing Broffman, he was too late stage to get into a couple of clinical studies (one in Italy, one in the U.S.) that Broffman was tied into. He gave us a number of “homework assignments,” one of which was to watch the last 1/3 of the video The Science of Fasting (starting right at about 39 minutes) about Valter Longo. (NOTE: Longo now has his whole “schtick” of supplements, etc. – Broffman didn’t recommend them, so I can’t speak about them.)

Broffman explained that during my husband’s chemotherapy, we needed to follow Longo’s fasting protocol (“FMD”), which closes down more “healthy” cells during the chemotherapy.

Chemotherapy’s “job” is to kill any cell in your body that is splitting while you are getting the treatment. So stopping “healthy” cells from splitting is a great idea. The reason that folks lose their hair (by the way, cold caps don’t work, don’t waste your money), get mouth sores, get neuropathy, etc. is because hair/nerve/mouth/stomach cells split often – so if you’re getting chemotherapy when one is splitting, you’ll kill it. Fasting convinces your “healthy” cells that it’s winter – when they should not be splitting so much. But cancer is stupid. (Bwa-ha-ha-ha DIE M***** F*****!!)

Cancer eats sugar and insulin acts as a “power up,” turning it into the Incredible Hulk. (Yes, this is overbroad, but this post can’t be 92 pages). Since this is the case, during chemotherapy in particular, one needs to keep carbohydrates to a minimum. The focus of Broffman’s supplementation involved supplements during the chemotherapy to help with the poisoning, then ones after the chemotherapy to help get the toxins and dead cells out of the body while staying in ketosis, and then ones to “rebuild” before the next chemotherapy cycle.

This involved a very elaborate calendar for me, the Caregiver, containing which supplements to give at what times. It also involved foods that would help. (Osso Good’s AIP-compliant bone broth, with the Chinese herbs already incorporated, was recommended and super helpful.)

The sad thing is that chemotherapy units – now made as comfortable as possible with personal TVs, lounge chairs, acupuncture and social workers – are awash in crappy, high carb food. Everything from “nutrition bars” to ice cream to the beloved Saltine cracker for nausea. The nurses were horrified when my husband would tell them not only that he was fasting, but also that he was coming into chemo on a fast. Everyone else is munching away on ice cream, pizza, cookies, Saltines, or whatever else made them feel better about being hooked up to a gigantic bag of poison for hours and hours. And every munch feeds their cancer.

We had provided the medical articles to our oncologist with respect to the fasting, so he had written in our file that we shouldn’t be “forced to” eat. Broffman had looked our oncologist up in his notes, and explained to us that – while he resembles “Bill and Ted’s Excellent Oncologist” with his spiky hair and vocal fry – the only way to get this particular doctor to agree that we could do what we wanted to do was to provide him with Western Medicine articles that showed that while a protocol (like fasting) might be difficult to do, it actually works. Most articles, in fact, stated that the fasting protocol worked better than anything else that was in trial; however, folks just didn’t stick to it. “Give me that Rocky Road Ice Cream, Ma, I have cancer, I’m on chemo, and feel like trash! And hand me a Saltine while you’re at it.”

I have, quite literally, a novel that I wrote after we saw Broffman, as well as the articles he recommended. If you’re interested in it, let me know in the comments. It talks through the entire Pine Street Clinic visit, and goes into great detail about the Phase I, II, III protocol during chemotherapy. We also re-visited Broffman a month or so ago, and I have another 10 pages of notes from him regarding where we are now.

My husband’s surgeon told him that there was basically “no way” that his bladder could be rebuilt after the surgery, but we did everything that was recommended by Broffman to get the best possible result, and the urologist’s assistant called me during the surgery to tell me that they were, indeed, able to build him an internal bladder. The whole surgery story and me terrorizing the poor intake nurse is for another day.

My husband was cancer-free for six months, then a tumor showed up in each lung. One was in the middle of the inferior lobe on his right side (three lobes on the right side, two on the left). The one in the left lung was (cue Louisiana-accented thoracic surgeon) “Snuggled r’aht up next to his ay-OR-ta” – so – impossible to operate. While the tumor in the right lung could be cut out either by cutting a “wedge” out of his lung or taking the whole lobe, the left tumor couldn’t be dealt with at all.

I asked the surgeon what he’d do and he laughed, saying: “Well, you go to a barber, he’s not gunna tell you not to get your hair cut,” but then we talked through what would happen if we did the “cyberknife” treatment that he was recommending on the left side to the tumor on the right. He said that the only issue would be the inability to biopsy the tumor . . . but in doing the surgery, my hubby would be left with 2/3 of his right lung. We opted to go find out about what “cyberknife” treatment was all about.

After discussion with the Chief of our various options (my new girl crush…), we decided to do SRS (stereotactic radiosurgery) on both tumors. As she reiterated, the downside of not being able to do a biopsy is the inability to see if this is the bladder cancer moving into the lungs, or if it is a “new” cancer (lung cancer), because the SRS obliterates the tumors. SRS is really quite amazing technology – I have a bunch of notes on that, too.

Lung cancer is a tough cancer – I had a friend die of it who had never smoked a day in her life, never lived around smoke, etc. When you tell someone that you have lung cancer, they look down their nose at you as if to say “Well, if you hadn’t smoked 12 packs of cigarettes a day for 10 years, you wouldn’t be in this position.” Just because >75% of lung cancers are in smokers doesn’t mean that it’s 100%. That said, we wouldn’t know whether the cancer was now lung cancer or was just migrating bladder cancer, as we would be blasting the tumors to smitherines.

A friend of mine’s family is tied to Sanoviv; that is how it was originally recommended. I had tried to get my hubby to agree to go to do their cancer-related protocol after his bladder cancer surgery. He had felt that the tests showed him to be ‘cancer free,’ so why spend all that money? As soon as the cancer was back, he agreed to go once the SRS treatment was completed.

We will be at Sanoviv, doing their Cancer Program, from mid-June to mid-July. The program is full-immersion and quite pricey, but we checked out two other integrative cancer treatment hospitals (one in Europe, one in Israel) and in actual fact, this program not only involves less travel but winds up being less expensive than the others we researched. I’ll be going too – a caregiver gets to go for $100/day, which includes all non-treatment related offerings (e.g., meals, the pools, room, etc.). HERE is their general description of what to bring/not bring/etc.

Every day apparently starts with meditation on the cliffside overlooking the ocean, then “grounding” on their chemical-free lawn in your bare feet, and yoga. You are given your schedule the night before at dinner and walked through it with your doctor, so you know what’s expected. While hubby is at treatment, I am expected to go to workshops on subjects such as functional nutrition, supplementation, how to transition from Sanoviv, and the like. The treatments are not only physical but also mental – you can see some of that if you poke around the Internet and the Sanoviv Programs.

As I understand it, we will be in two different bedrooms with the same “sitting room,” because the program involves detoxing. That means no wife in ze bed! :-) This also means that you show up with underwear, a bathing suit, and a sun hat – everything else is provided to you. Yes – shampoo, conditioner, soap, toothpaste, clothing, shoes (Birkenstocks), socks, etc. Really! No makeup, no nail polish (just took mine off in fact), only one of a couple of sunblocks (they sell it, or you can bring it), no plastic or plastic bottles, even if BPA-free, and – yes – no electronics.

Your “sitting room” has a balcony overlooking the ocean, a mini-trampoline, infrared sauna, chi machine, and wall racks to do stretching. You’re expected to do at least 15 minutes of “rebounding” on the mini-tramp daily, plus use the infrared sauna and the chi machine. The TV in the room only has two channels – I believe it’s Discovery Channel and National Geographic Channel – because they want you to detox from that, as well.

There is a separate room at the facility where you can use your/their computer, but it is the only place on “campus” where wifi is allowed, as it’s considered something that you need to “detox” from. This will be interesting for me, because I will need to work when hubby doesn’t need me. As I was writing up this blog, I actually emailed our Admissions guy to ask about this, and he said that if your computer has “an Ethernet port,” that you can connect in your room. Of course, most newer laptops have USB 3.0 ports /HDMI ports, but no Ethernet port. While hubby was researching getting an adapter so that I can at least do some work (and particularly teleconferences, of which I know I have to attend at least one) outside the “computer room” I happened to mention it to a client – the next day, an Amazon package showed up, with 2 adapters, and a long and a short Ethernet cable! I had to laugh at that!

I have been reading a number of write-ups on Sanoviv, though the ones that I can find are all written by folks who went for a one-week “cleanse”/detox-type protocol. So that’s why I felt that I should try to blog about what happens during the cancer program. HERE is an example, that shows you “what you get” at Sanoviv – HERE is another. HERE is a third.

That said, there isn’t one write-up about their fitness center! They have “Zumba” classes and “salsa” – but nothing “Strength-ish.” I was told by the Admissions person that there are “a few ellipticals and some dumbbells, but not heavy.” Since I have been working really hard on strength and HIIT training, my gym owner (bless him) crafted a workout for me for the time I will be gone. I will be bringing a TRX, some resistance bands, and an EmPack and 3 reservoirs. So we’ll see how that goes, too!

The Sanoviv diet is basically plant-centric, with no caffeine, dairy, soy, sugar, toxins, alcohol, corn, gluten, etc. They have a garden and a lot of what you eat is grown there. They also have organic/raised chickens and eggs, plus fish at some meals. (I’m allergic to fish, but that was noted in my intake.)

This will be a big difference for us – and we’re drinking all the wine we can before we go (ha ha – um, kinda joking). We eat very clean and pretty “primal” – organic veg/fruit, grass-fed meat – no soy, corn, sugars, gluten, etc. – but we know that our portion control is lax. We do our best to eat in a 12 hour window, though Broffman had told us it would be better to winnow it down to 10 (and that’s Sanoviv’s system). We also have meat every dinner – I’m looking forward to learning some new recipes (and have been boning up on them also through the Thug Kitchen cookbooks!)

I mentioned to Admissions that, because of my migraines (written about before), I have 2 cups of coffee a day. They are vasodialator migraines – caffeine helps. He said I would need a prescription and to take it as a pill. So I talked to my doctor, and she told me what to buy, which I did. Any meds that you take have to come in their bottles (not in a weekly/daily pill container), and you’re not to bring any non-prescribed supplements.

(Speaking of supplements and nutrition, I am binge listening to The Funk’tional Nutrition Podcast, because a client of mine was on it. They’re GREAT! If you’re a ‘Nutrition Nerd’ like I am, they really know their stuff.)

So that’s about all I have to say in this “introduction” to what we’ll be doing from mid-June to mid-July.

Work has been insane recently which is great for my wallet but tough for getting prepared to go. That said . . . I mean, how prepared can you get when you are just packing undies and a hat? :-)

What are my expectations? I expect that hubby will be pretty sick the first week (we were told as much). I expect that we will both likely lose some weight since we will be portion-controlled and won’t have, oh, say, cheese. :-) I have set a goal to do the workout that my trainer has given me each day, whatever that takes. I plan to take notes and then blog each day or at least every other, and write up what’s going on so that there is a comprehensive log of it all. I plan to check work email a couple times a day, if the building that has the “computer room” isn’t too far away and the wifi is working (apparently somewhat dicey).

If you’ve gotten this far, bless you! You are either a devoted F&F, or perhaps a previous blog subscriber who didn’t unsubscribe when I went “radio silent” for about a year. (Now you know what I’ve been, sadly, up to. Caregiving takes every free moment, that’s for sure.)

I’ll be reading all the Comments when I get on the computer at Sanoviv. So if you have any questions, etc. let me know – or if you just want to say Hi! As per the whole “no electronics” thing, I’m bringing a couple books (yes, paper), but don’t plan to access Instagram, Facebook, or even personal email while gone. We’ll see how THAT goes! So if you’re in that “F&F” category, keep me company by commenting.

Onward!

Green Living Guide

Hey all!

I received a note from Kendra at (of all things) CouponChef.com related to one of my podcasts – from 10 years ago! (Yes, everything on the Internet really does live forever!) I liked what she sent, and I think you might too. (If you haven’t checked out this podcast, just know that the Listener Call-In Line is no more – what can I say, it’s been a decade . . . ) That said, here’s her email:

Hi there, I listened to your podcast about living more ‘Green’ – thanks!

I’ve been looking for some resources about green living online. I’m glad your website has content that could be useful to people looking to reduce their impact on the environment. We at Coupon Chief recently created a massive guide about inexpensive ways to go green. It includes up-to-date information and special tips to help people adopt a more Earth-friendly lifestyle without draining their wallets. We’re hoping it’s worth linking to along with your other resources!

If you think that it could be valuable to your readers, here’s the link to our Green Living guide. It took us a lot of time and effort to put this together, so I hope you (and your Bond Grrl readers!) like it!

Best,
Kendra

I am not quite sure how CouponChef.com decided to write such a detailed guide, but I think that it has a lot of good reminders and some very good information. Maybe I’m just impressed that someone found a podcast of mine from a decade ago, listened to it, and decided to write because of it!

Make it a great day,

Sandy

Career Success through the Management of Stress – by Julie Morris

Business owners and workaholics often live in a world with quick turnarounds and tight deadlines. Operating in an entrepreneurial environment leads to high-pressure situations that can easily fray the nerves, especially when you’re trying to find the right balance between work and the responsibilities of life outside the office. Perhaps you are starting a new business and trying to score a big promotion, or perhaps you’re a single parent trying to make ends meet. Whatever the cause of your career stress, there are ways to achieve new goals while reducing that stress.

Sweating Stress Away

Stress is an inevitable part of our everyday lives. While it is impossible to entirely eliminate stress, maintaining or improving your physical condition can be helpful to your mental state. Not only can it elevate your concentration and overall cognitive functions, but it can also reduce tiredness and fatigue. In addition, exercise provides an outlet for either solitude (when you’re craving alone-time) or the ability to “sweatwork” and meet people who might be able to help you in your career pursuits.

Eating Right

For those burning the midnight oil, it might be difficult to find time to stop for a bite with deadlines quickly approaching. Diets are usually the first thing we sacrifice to help us stay on the go. However, what you eat and drink can have a profound impact on the way you feel, especially when you’re unable to break for meals. Fast food and junk food might provide a boost of energy and comfort in the moment, but what they lack in nutritional value can ultimately leave you feeling sluggish and morose. Small changes to your dietary intake can help you start feeling better while allowing you to implement better nutritional habits with your family at home.

Getting Enough Sleep

A good night’s rest is important for your physical and emotional health. Insufficient sleep can leave you feeling exhausted and overwhelmed, which doesn’t bode well for work performance or stress. In fact, not getting enough sleep has an adverse effect on your ability to quickly and decisively manage tasks and perform at work. If you’re constantly on call, you might want to consider turning off your phone and other devices before bed or leaving them in a separate room. Even an additional hour of sleep at night can have positive effects on your efficiency during working hours.

Going Alternative

If finding time to sleep or exercise proves to be too much of a challenge, a remedy such as CBD oil can help reduce stress. CBD has been shown to host a slew of benefits, from sleep improvements to anxiety relief to pain management. Do your due diligence by researching manufacturers and finding the best quality product, and since oil is not for everyone, CBD does come in other forms, like vape oil. As with any new treatment, be it CBD or something else, be sure to discuss it with your doctor first.

Self-Caring

The thought of taking time out of your busy schedule for a little self-indulgence might be a foreign idea, but it’s something every busy person should embrace. By carving out a little bit of time to pamper yourself, you’ll feel fresh and recharged. Work can slowly cause changes to your identity, so remember to spend time outside the office to enjoy fun activities with the people you treasure.

Whether you are a lady-boss entrepreneur or a busy professional, it’s important to set realistic expectations while cutting yourself a little slack. Your career could even slow down when you’re moving too fast. In order to grow professionally, you might have to step back a little. First, cope with the stress. Second, set yourself up to achieve your professional goals without sacrificing your health. You’ll hopefully be able to find the balance between your work goals and your mental health, a balance that will help you move full speed ahead onto the next phase in your career.

Photo Credit: Pexels

Julie Morris is a Life and Career Coach, and can be found at JulieMorris.Org.

best beef jerky ever!

2018 UPDATE! Use London Broil steak, cut against the grain (e.g., cut parallel to the short end, not the long end). It is WAY less expensive than skirt steak, and works just as well if not better.

Recipe:

1 gallon Ziplock bag
a cookie sheet (must have a lip) or two
a cookie cooling rack or two
aluminum foil (to wrap around the cookie sheet)

For every 1 to 1 1/2 pound meat you need:
1/4 cup tamari (gluten-free and organic is only pennies more . . . hint hint!)
Juice of 1 lemon
Juice of 1 lime
1/2 teaspoon onion powder (or onion salt, in which case use garlic powder)
1/2 teaspoon garlic salt (see above – if you want to substitute garlic powder, use onion salt – or if you use powder both times, double the salt added below)
1/4 teaspoon black pepper (or less if you don’t want it spicy)
1/8 teaspoon sea salt or Himalayan pink salt
1/8 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (or less if you don’t like it spicy)
1/4 teaspoon red sumac (a Lebanese spice I use in everything – this is totally optional but if you find it and use it, you’ll be stuck on it too ;-) ).

Start with Skirt Steak.

1-1.5 pound packets of skirt steak
1-1.5 pound packets of skirt steak

Our local market sells packets of skirt steak in 1-1.5 pound vacuum-sealed packages. These are fantastic, because you can buy a bunch of them at once and freeze them if you’re not going to use them – then when you want some steak, you can take them out of the freezer and throw them right into the sous vide, bringing them up to about 90 degrees “and holding” when you’re at work. (If you don’t have a sous vide, you might want to read my blog HERE.) When you get home, heat up a cast iron skillet super hot, scorch them on each side for a minute or so, voila, done.

But today, these are for jerky.

The photo shows four 1.5ish pound packets. With this recipe, you can double or triple or quadruple or ??? the recipe without any issues. The smallest of the packages in the photograph is just over a pound – the largest is 1.5 pounds. So I’m quadrupling today. Because my butcher’s packages are always about 1 to 1-1/2 pounds, I always figure one package = one “set” of the marinade ingredients listed above.

If you don’t have a market that has these packs, but you do  have a market where you can talk to the butcher, just bring him the photo from the blog and say you’d like one of these, please. ;-) It’s not expensive meat – some butchers cut it up to make fajita meat, but it starts like this.

The recipe by and large comes from Haylie Pomroy’s book The Fast Metabolism Diet, which has some great recipes. This one is particularly good.

I started down the Fast Metabolism Diet road last week, and though I haven’t lost any weight, my energy is really good, and I feel great. I blogged about what it entails HERE.

You can use any “meaty meat” – halibut, turkey, buffalo, etc. – but it works particularly well with beef.

My issue with jerky is that it always contains some form of sugar, and/or some sort of preservatives. I’m sure there are jerkies you can order without these, but they’re probably immensely pricey. This recipe is so easy, it’s ridiculous not to make your own.

Cut the steak into 3 strips (against the grain).

2015-05-04 16.00.20
skirt steak before cutting (about 3 feet long or so)

The photo at left is what a skirt steak looks like out of the package. I don’t have a “selfie stick” and even at the end of my condor arm I could barely get it all in the picture. It’s like 3 feet of meat.

If there is any obvious fat, trim it off – but this is a very very lean cut of meat.

The fat you see in this picture doesn’t count as “fat” by the way – that’s just “marbling.” You may, however, run into a bit of fat that run all the way through the meat – particularly at the “fat” end of the meat – that’s what you want to cut off. But to give you some idea, I did not have any in all 4 of the steaks that I cut up before writing this blog.

Get your kitchen shears, and cut the strip the “long way” (against the grain). Your steak will be meatier on one end and less so on the other. So that means you’ll have three strips on one end, and usually as you cut, you’ll wind up with only two strips on the other end.

this is the meaty end of the skirt steak - as you can see, I get 3 strips on this side.
this is the meaty end of the skirt steak – as you can see, I get 3 strips on this side.

I keep these in as long of strips as they go. (Yes, I’m juvenile enough to sort of make a game of it – like trying to peel an orange in one strip of rind.) Sometimes you hit a weak spot in the meat, so that “strip” breaks off – it’s not important. But if you’re using a full skirt steak, you want the width of the strips to be about 1/3 of the strip at the “fat end” or 1/2 of the strip at the “skinny” end. It’s not rocket science, just do your best ;-)

marinade ingredients
marinade ingredients

 Mix up all the other ingredients into the Ziplock.

Take the ingredients from the above recipe (multiplied by however much meat you have), and put them into a Ziplock. Take it from me, if you use a Ziplock with the actual “zipper” it’s a LOT easier to turn it upside down and shake it than if you use one that you just “press” together. No need for the excitement of the entire marinade and meat concoction slipping out on the floor when you shake it ‘cos you didn’t quite get the tracks of the bag to match….

A gallon Ziplock will take up to four times the recipe above, if you’re wondering. If you’re doing more than four times the recipe, I would use a couple of Ziplocks, but you only need one up to a quadruple recipe.

Again – the thing I really like about this recipe is that there is nothing sweet in it. Honey, sugar, whatever. And it’s delish. Trust me here.

Shake the marinade to mix it together.

2015-05-04 16.13.34Plop all the meat into the Ziplock.

Once you have all the strips in there with the marinade, seal the Ziplock almost all the way. Then squeeze down on it so that you get all the air out of the top little opening you’ve left.

Then seal it tight.

meat in marinade, all air squeezed out.
meat in marinade, all air squeezed out.

Now turn the Ziplock over and over to be sure the marinade gets to all the meat (like I said, this is the exciting part if you aren’t completely sure about your Ziplock zipper…)

Put the Ziplock into the refrigerator overnight (at least 8 hours, but better if it’s overnight).

Whenever you open the refrigerator between then and cooking time, give the Ziplock a few little tosses to move the marinade around on the meat. It will settle on the bottom side, so you want to be sure you let all the pieces get evenly marinaded.

After 8+ hours, drain & discard the marinade.

Squeeze the meat (while still in the Ziplock) to get it pretty dry. The easiest way to do this is to get the bulk of the marinade out first, and then zip the zipper back up most of the way, and squeeze the marinade out the “spout” by rolling it up from the bottom. This is similar to what you did when you were letting the air out to seal it, before putting it in the fridge.

You don’t want to pat the marinade off, but you do want to squeeze out as much of the liquid as you can, because you’re going to be dehydrating that meat, and more liquid = more time.

Take your cookie sheets and wrap them in aluminum foil.

You’ll need about two sheets and two cookie “cooling racks” for about each 3 pounds of meat, give or take.

Because the marinade and fat from the jerky is going to drip onto the aluminum foil, you may want to spray a little coconut oil in between the cookie sheet and the foil. I’m not sure if you have ever had this happen, but sometimes the foil “adheres to” the cookie sheet. So you might want to put a Pam-esque buffer. Personally, I use what are called “baker’s sheets” over my cookie sheets. They are PFOA-free silicone, non-stick, re-usable, and work like a charm. But as most folks don’t have these or do as much in-oven baking/roasting as I do, I am using aluminum foil in this recipe.

Put the cookie cooling racks on top of the aluminum foil, with their “feet” folded in.

If your sheets and racks are the same size as my sheets and racks, the racks will fit inside the lip of the sheet with a pretty good amount of room to spare. That will come up in a second.

If you’re only doing 1x of the recipe (silly you, you’re going to eat all that jerky before anyone gets home . . .  :-) ) then you can likely use one sheet, or use two and leave more room between the pieces.

one rack, set up - about 2 to 2-1/2 lbs.
one rack, set up – about 2 to 2-1/2 lbs.

Put the meat on the racks, cutting it to size as you go. It can be close together, but shouldn’t overlap.

Although the recipe I used stated that you have to have the meat strips 1/4″ apart, they shrink up a LOT. So, I snuggled them up close, and as I checked the jerky, I was able to move them farther apart as they shrank. If you leave the strips long, be sure to tuck the ends down into the pan, so that they drip into the pan (not onto the bottom of the oven). That said – I’d still put down aluminum foil in the oven anyway, just in case. ;-)

Remember I mentioned the space between the rack and the sheet? I personally actually laid a couple strips along the “long side” of the sheet (between the sheet and the rack) and then another along the “short side.” The jerky drips a LOT as it’s dehydrating, but that basically means that about 1/2 way through, you’ll be able to move those strips up to the rack and out of the drippings.

As you can probably tell, I’m not too fussy of a cook ;-) I just wanted to be sure that you knew that everything came out just fine when I did things this way. I wasn’t interested in doing two batches, because that’s a lot of time. So I made it work. Also, to give you an idea, I’m doing 4x the recipe this time around (I did 3x last time), and I’m still going to use the same setup. They really do shrink up a lot as they cook.

Bake the strips uncovered at 200 degrees for about 3 hours.

At three hours, you want your oven timer to go off so you can check on them. If you have two pans of strips, this is the time to swap the bottom pan for the top pan. It’s also time to re-arrange the strips as you may need. You can taste one, but they’re not going to be close.

4x the recipe in the oven, so about 4 to 5 pounds of meat.
4x the recipe in the oven, so about 4 to 5 pounds of meat.

If you have some other situation – more strips down the sides/off the rack or some such, you’re going to need to get them up on the rack as soon as you can. So you might be checking more than just once at 3 hours and once when “nearly done.” But this is what I did. At 3 hours they had shrunk in enough for me to get all the strips that were off the rack onto the rack, plus I was able to re-arrange them to allow a bit more room between all the strips.

Bake the strips for about another 3 hours.

I say “about” because I have a convection oven, and mine were done at 6 hours total. If you don’t have a convection oven, I think it’s going to be more like 7 hours. Leave the temperature the same, don’t cover them . . . just do what you just did, and come back 3 hours later and check on them.

You’ll know they are done when the meat is dry and leathery. And you can’t stop eating it.

Remove from the oven and cool completely before refrigerating or freezing in an airtight container. (I just took the cookie cooling racks off the pans and set them aside until the jerky was cold.)

If, that is, you can make it that far, and don’t eat them all as you’re waiting for them to cool. ;-) .

On this Haylie Pomroy eating plan, the first two days are basically fruit/veg/grains/some protein, then the next two are strictly veg/protein (with protein as the snacks – enter the jerky), then the last three days are a lot more relaxed with fruit/veg/protein/grains.

I made the jerky on the first of the middle two days, and actually weighed out how much 3 ounces was, to be sure I got the snack portion right. Yeah . . . then I weighed out 6 ounces, to get the lunch portion right . . . and another 3 ounces for the next snack . . .

2015-05-04 17.42.53
leftovers from last week. NomNomNom ;-) I think I have to have one…And YES, this is all that’s left of 3x the recipe :-)

It’s very addictive, and so easy to make!

By the way, the aluminum foil is going to be coated with a thick mixture of hardened on marinade, fat, etc. While the jerky is cooling, get that off the cookie sheet and throw it away. (As I use baker’s sheets, I just hit them with super hot water and this slides right off, then I pat the sheet dry, and hang it to use for the next roasting/baking extravaganza ;-) ) If you have a dog or animal that might go through your trash, I recommend crumpling it up into a ball and zipping it into the Ziplock that you marinated the meat in. It’s harder to smell that way ;-)

Any questions…?

And..speaking of recipes…tonight is roasted chicken night – if you didn’t catch it last time, HERE is the recipe for the easiest and best roast chicken in the Universe ;-)

Packing for Paris – & Everywhere! :-)

I’ve been asked this question now *a lot*. Though I had a section on “Packing for Paris” in my very very very OLD book “Fempowerment: A Guide To Unleashing Your Inner Bond Girl,” some of the suggestions are from 20 years ago (wow that book is old LOL), so here you go.

THIS ARTICLE was the best one that I have found about what women should wear in Paris, from what we saw there a couple months ago. One thing it doesn’t mention – Parisian women don’t really wear earrings. It’s one of those annoying articles with a LOT OF ADS in it, but the information is 100% sound.

my floor before packing for a trip LOL

Below is a list I made for a friend who wanted a list of “what works for me” when I am traveling. NOTE: I DO NOT get paid for any of these Amazon links. You’re welcome. FWIW, I keep a ridiculously long packing list “template” in my “travel drawer,” and just edit as necessary. It includes things like tweezers, a folding metal straw, a folding metal “spork,” and then different clothes/hats/etc. for different seasons. It’s split into what goes into a carry-on and what gets checked (presuming I’m checking a bag), plus a section on what to do “before I leave” (such as set up a vacation response, hold my mail via USPS.com, etc.) I’d share it here, but it’s in the free version of Evernote which doesn’t let me download it. Whaa-WHAAA. HERE is a post from a few years ago with some “travel tips,” too. Some of these tips are no longer relevant (for example Mime & Moi went out of business :-( ) so take it for what it is. Anyway . . . That List! –

  1.  “HIDDEN POCKET” travel scarf (ordered a ton of these on Amazon, returned all but this one). Way way WAY better than any of the “hide your passport here” suggestions that generally involve weird zipper wallet things you wear around your neck (until you don’t, ‘cos it’s a pain).
  2. Have a coin purse for Euros! Since you generally won’t need your driver’s license, etc. don’t take them. Put them somewhere you will FIND THEM when you get home! (like in your fridge LOL)
  3. Be sure you have the Uber app. There are Ubers EVERYWHERE in Paris but more importantly, the TAXIS use the Uber app too. You put in where you want to go (if you’re not going to take the Metro, which is SUPER EASY) and then choose which “method” you want. At Charles de Gaulle, however, do NOT use an Uber – walk out to the taxi stand. It’s a set price to the left bank, a different one to the right bank.
  4. The Metro has an app too!!!!! Download it, fund it, then you don’t have to buy tickets.
  5. If you have Clorox wipes in your purse, keep them in a ziplock. Mine leaked. Be sure to wipe everything on the plane, including the fold down tray (saw someone change a baby on one and then fold it back up, and no one of course cleaned it between EEK!), seat arms, seatbelt, window shade, etc. If your seatmates gives you a turned up nose (sometimes they do, thinking you’re being “overly paranoid” ‘cos “COVID is so 2 years ago”) just tell them the baby story. They’ll ask you sheepishly for their own wipe….
  6. Keep an extra N95 mask in your purse. Wear one on the plane. Just do it. Do you want to get sick 3 days after you start your trip?
  7. CELL PHONE STRAP: *Amazingly* useful because it can be made long enough to put your phone in your back pocket, or short enough to just be around your neck easily without fumbling. Keeping your cell phone in your purse is dumb. Be sure to have the “camera” button on the home screen so you can just “swipe and shoot.”
  8. Another thing in the “smartest thing I’ve ever bought” category – hard shell case with 4 card hinged back – at home, contains my drivers license, medical card, ATM, and Amex. I didn’t bring my driver’s license to Paris, so added an additional Visa that wasn’t my ATM. I never carry a purse any more when “out and about.”
  9. Presuming that you’re wearing your N95 mask in close public places, a strap like this keeps it near you versus in your purse where you’ll say “Oh, it’s too much trouble to get it out.” I also bring COVID tests.
  10. Purse Fan: The directions are in “Japanglish” so be sure you know how to use/plug in/etc. before you go, but SO GREAT if it’s going to be warm.
  11. My travel partner to New Zealand had this travel clock/flashlight and I LOVED IT and so I bought one.
  12. BY FAR the easiest/lightest/quickest charger I have (this stays in my purse and a “plus” is that it has the “wire” attached for charging either a <newer> iPhone or Samsung).
  13. This wall charger was a LIFESAVER since I could charge my phone, ipad, watch, etc. in ONE plug that I then attached to the universal charger.
  14. Speaking of, this is a great universal charger (you plug #13 into the top and still have more plugs on the bottom if you need them). Doesn’t work for Australia/New Zealand/Fiji/Argentina, but that’s what this one is for LOL.
  15. BY FAR the best “no show” socks – they don’t slip. Used with my loafers and my “cool” sneakers (Keds or Chuck Taylors are okay – big-bottomed “athletic shoes” not so much.)
  16. Although not small enough to fit in a purse, this umbrella folds “backwards” so is fantastic for getting in/out of cars/taxis/etc. This travel umbrella is small enough to carry. Both are “bomb proof” – especially in strong winds.
  17. These “makeup washcloths” REALLY WORK (mascara stains, get black). Also suggest you bring a washcloth for your shower if you use one, ‘cos for some odd reason our hotels didn’t have them “standard.” Also a slim, packable robe is nice.
  18. Herbert always swore by these tablets, so I use them and seem to have less jet lag.
  19. If you’re not bringing enough clothes and will need to wash, get these – otherwise, Tide “stain sticks” are a LIFE SAVER (always have in my purse – they “eat” food stains and are available at my grocery store).
  20. Love this headphone/mask! I use on the plane. (Another thing that I had to “plug in”) Also great if you really need it dark in the hotel room and/or you’re for example near an elevator or a loud street. Download a “Calm” app or playlist and snooze away.
  21. By far best/easiest luggage locks I’ve used. Only issue is that the numbers go through on “both sides” so I put a laundry marker “dot” on the side that I had set the numbers!
  22. Supplement recommended by my doctor – I took every day and not a sniffle. Not inexpensive, but nearly EVERY time I travel I catch something – not this time.
  23. This is Trader Joe’s version of “New Wash” (for like 10% the cost) is AMAZINGLY GOOD as a shampoo/conditioner (and my hair *really tangles*). I squeezed it out of this tube into a smaller “travel” tube.
  24. I would NEVER travel without these steam masks – I use on the plane – they are “single use” but I put them on under the above blackout/headphone “mask” and it makes a warm lavender steamy spa luxury for about 20 minutes or so.
  25. I got “air tags” for my luggage and put them in an inside pocket. (There are both Samsung and iPhone versions.) That’s how – when my checked bag didn’t arrive back home – I knew exactly where it was! (First, Dublin airport….Then a storage facility…Then to San Francisco via New York…Then in a van from SFO to, finally, my house.) I mentioned this in my last Paris post, but that “taught me” not to pack “everything that wasn’t valuable” in the checked luggage . . . that took a week to show up . . . with <ahem> all my undies, camis, bras, etc. Whoopsie!
  26. Best carry on I’ve ever had. Secret compartments all over! It doesn’t have a “shoulder strap” so I “jerry rigged” one off of another bag (mentioned below). I previously did a post on my favorite travel bag, which still holds if you want a bag that does what it does (handles are cut-proof and can be “locked around” a pillar, can hold blue ice packets and convert to a cooler, etc.) This would not have been right carry-on bag to take to Paris – but quite an amazing bag to take, for example, on a trip that would be less urban and more beach ;-) As a completely separate thought on this already-too-long post, I always pack an over-the-shoulder cloth bag when I travel. It’s invaluable if you wind up picking up some groceries, trinkets, taking off “a layer,” etc. And *so* much better looking than anything that resembles a backpack! Because (duh) I keep this blog when I travel, the one I use lives in my carry-on with a small notebook and an “astronaut pen” (i.e., writes even if upside down) for taking notes (it’s too hard on your phone). I also have a tiny sunscreen that just lives in there, etc.
  27. Really pleased with this compression pouch/suitcase organizer combo, especially the zip-together “closet hangers” – this changed my packing forever lol. Might not be available any more (this was a Kickstarter) but here are similar compression cubes. I happen to have a Solgaard “check-in closet” suitcase, which comes with an “organizer” as well and doesn’t have a zipper so stops the potentiality of break-ins by just jimmying the zipper. This actually happened to a friend who had a lock on the zipper, but they just jimmied the zipper. Frustratingly, we surmised it was after her bag was X-rayed to get on the plane and they saw what was in it. I also have the Solgaard “Voyager weekender” – in fact, this is the shoulder strap that I used on the carry-on that I mentioned above.
  28. Polarized glasses are generally a must – these are inexpensive, and they float. Why polarized? Because if you just wear “dark glasses,” they make your pupils dialate – and then the UV rays can go STRAIGHT into the back of your eye… :-( How do you tell if glasses are polarized? Take a pair you know are, then turn the pair you are wondering about “crosswise” to it (so the lenses are 90 degrees from the ones you know are Polarized). If you can’t see through – both are Polarized! If you CAN see through, one is not :-)
  29. This “window shelf” for the plane is something that I get so many comments on – generally by flight attendants! This is super useful for the two “extra legroom, over the wing” seats on Southwest flights (the flight attendants always stand in that row when you’re boarding) because they don’t have a seat (and therefore no “seat table”) in front of them. Yes, I know it seems spendy for “what it is” – but I use it Every. Single. Time I am traveling by plane. Has a “hole” to hang things off of (glasses, etc.) plus gives you a spot for your coffee or book or soda without opening the seat table.
  30. In the “TMI” department – these wipes are sure great for travel . . . Also, love these little chocolate bars for travel, especially because they aren’t easily melted.
  31. If you’re in Paris, the “Wallace Fountains” have great, clean water (see HERE if you don’t know what I’m talking about). One of these is useful and can be rolled up in your purse. Paris is really trying to move away from “plastic water bottles.”
Enough!

Day 15 – Latin Quarter

Yes, as I (finally) type this, it’s a few days after I returned to California. My luggage, unfortunately, did not. The learning: If you’re taking all your underwear on a trip, be sure to bring some back in your carry-on….

Now, for Day 15. We did another tour with the Earful Tower folks, and in fact had Hannah again as our tour guide.

Unfortunately ( :-( ) TripIt (which is great, by the way) had “overwritten” the address to meet in the Latin Quarter with the address for the Peloton Cafe (Marais Tour).

Funny how your mind works…

As we were on the Metro to our (incorrect) destination, I mentally moved the Latin Quarter to the other side of the Seine (since that’s where we were going), etc. The plus side was that Oliver – “Mr. Earful Tower” – and his son were having a coffee outside Peloton Cafe, so we got to actually say Hi in person, before jetting off to where we were SUPPOSED to be (sigh).

On our walk – in the wrong area! (D’oh!)

Luckily, we were having a tour with the Aments, not “strangers,” so though it did lead to some good-natured ribbing, we were only about 15 minutes late. (So much for that breakfast we had “left time for” LOL).

Hannah once actually lived in the Latin Quarter, on Rue de Irelandais (“Street of the Irish”). They have accommodations for Irish students that she took advantage of. In walking past her former digs, we learned that the “Latin Quarter” is so named because it is the center of scholarship and study. The Sorbonne is here, and originally students/scholars spoke Latin. (So much for the idea that it was an area of salsa and tango!)

While Montmartre is known to be the area for those carrying out artistic pursuits (dancers, artists), The Latin Quarter was known for those with “intellectual pursuits,” such as scholars, writers, and the like. It is the area with the most book shops in Paris.

One of our first stops was at a “James Joyce lived here” plaque. Hannah opined that of course Joyce is Irish – but when they put up the plaque, he was a “British writer, of Irish origins.”

Mr. Joyce, to put it nicely, “lived on others’ generosity.” He had no problem running up bills, then sending them on for others to pay. When the “others” decided that they were tired of paying for the Ritz, he had to move here, which was definitely a step down – at that time, it was the “writers’ Montmartre” – not known for being swanky digs.

As we strolled past Rue de Clovis, Hannah mentioned that he was a famous French king from the 6th Century. (I actually remember this – I had to memorize all the kings of France in some French class or another – the only one I remember is Clovis because my mnemonic had him with “Cloven” hooves.) Interestingly, a while after Clovis, “Louis” became a kingly name. But it doesn’t have any real origin. The thought is that it was actually bastardized *from* “Clovis” – that the “C” was lost, and then the “V” became a “U” et voila – “Louis.”

We found another chunk of The Wall that Oliver is so passionate about. I talked a bit about this in the Marais tour writeup. As a reminder, it was built by Philip II Augustus (who ruled from 1165-1223) in 1190, to make Paris a “fortress” when he went off reluctantly to take part in the Crusades. It was 16 miles in circumference. As you may remember, Louis XIV tore it down, because he considered himself a very successful king, and felt that his “name” would protect Paris and that having a wall made him look bad.

All over Paris, the city had grown “around” the wall, however, so tearing it down wasn’t quite that easy. There are still sections, now almost 1,000 years later, in people’s basements, underground parking lots – the big stretch we saw in the Marais – and smaller pieces here and there. Hannah said that an office building even has a piece of a tower in it. What we came to here was a piece of the wall that some apartments had been built into. It went on 15 feet more inside the area where we were standing. Hannah told a story of a woman from this apartment who barely avoided being knocked out by one of the stones falling out of the mortar; when she called the city about it, they came and gingerly took the stone away – because it’s not just a potentially head-bashing stone – it’s “historical”! :-)

Next we walked past the Lycee Henry IV (I think). It is a very famous high school, where Emmanuel Macron, Sartre, and a number of others attended. It was built on the grounds of the Abbey of St. Genevieve, which was built in the 6th or 7th century. In the photo with the girl wearing red shorts, the stairs that you can barely see to the left side with a couple sitting on them were in the movie Midnight in Paris, when the car comes to pick up Owen Wilson. (I really really liked that movie. I’m going to have to rent it again.)

We headed to Rue Descartes (though I don’t have a photo): Descartes was enormously prolific during his lifetime, and is basically now only known for one phrase, “I think, therefore I am.”

This sign at left, at Maison Verlane, says Hemingway lived in the building, but that’s just half true.

Hemingway moved here with his first of four wives and their child, as a journalist for Canada.

(Leann picked up a book at the airport, “The Paris Wife,” a novel about that wife, Hadley Richardson.)

The apartment that they lived in was pretty rustic, so Hemingway took a studio at Maison Verlane, so he could write there.  

Below are some pictures of Amorino ice cream on Place de la Contrescarpe: They build a flower out of the three flavors you choose for your cone.

Place de la Contrescarpe takes its name from the area around the former street rue de la Contrescarpe-St.-Marcel. “Contrescarpe” (same word in English without the final E) means an embankment outside a ditch or moat. This one was the embankment outside The Wall.

There are two cafes across from one another on both sides of the park at Place de la Contrescarpe.

One is constantly sunny – that was Cafe des Arts where Hemingway used to hang out. Hannah commented that he was from Florida, so “Small wonder.”

The other is constantly shady – and it’s where Hannah, being Irish-skinned, used to hang out when she lived here!

If you were coming from Rome, you would come up Rue Mouffetard to the gate that used to be right here.

While the name of the street was spelled differently over the centuries, basically it means “stench.” So this was a “stinky street.” Now, it is a very fashionable area to live, with restaurants and bistros, and then as you head along it, it transforms into “Bio” (organic) grocery stores with excellent produce, chocolate shops, etc.

Above is where the Hemingway family actually lived from 1922-23, 74 Rue de Cardinal Lemoine on the third floor. He wrote about this apartment in “The Moveable Feast,” basically stating that it was “before things got sad and seedy,” when he and Hadley were “young, happy and poor.”

Hannah mentioned that 47,000 buildings were torn down when Haussmann was doing the renovation of Paris. Buildings were taxed based on their footage on the ground – so you will see buildings shaped like “Vs” and with towers that jut out from the side. In the bottom right photo above, these were probably added-on indoor plumbing.

 

Look at the walls, above. All over Paris (and actually all over the world) you can see these “space invaders.” (There is a “Daffy Duck” in the last set of photos, too.) I can’t remember if I talked about it when writing up the Montmartre tour, but our guide there told us a bit about the artist Invader. He is France’s Banksy. There is even one of his tiles on the International Space Station. From the beginning, he had an app to “log” the art that you found around Paris – and now, internationally. If you are the first to find one of the pieces, you get extra points. The app also tells you whether the art you have photographed is a fake, as there are now a number of imitators!

Invader started about 16 years ago, right around when phones could take photos, and to this day his work shows up out of nowhere. Originally, he did not get permits to do this, but once the French authorities realized that it was a good tourist attractant, they gave him a “blanket permit” to put them up. (The fakes, however, are taken down if they are discovered not to be real.)

His art is attached to popular culture – he often pixilates a well-known picture (ah, copyright infringement LOL). Above you can see a pixelated version of a photo of Nina Simone, and of course Daffy Duck. He does sell artworks (again, a bit like Banksy) that go for millions.

He is very famous for his anonymity – though our guide in Montmartre actually saw him putting up a new one, and was cautioned not to “tell anyone” until it was found on the app. (He said that he didn’t – he was in high school and so awed to see “Invader” that he kept mum.) Invader has an Instagram account, and he gives clues there for new ones. HERE are the ones that cropped up during the Games.

There were a number of commemoration plaques dealing with the Nazis basically clearing out and killing the intellectuals during WW2. We also saw the plaza where the deed was done to some (below).

These stairs are a vertical garden. It was only tiles two years ago.

The neighborhood decided to put the plants in, and Hannah says that she loves coming by to see how it has grown out.

We next visited the Roman Amphitheatre of Lutece (or, the remains of it). It was built in the late first century C.E. and is accessed (free) through an archway at 47 Rue Monge beside the Hotel Des Arenes. Originally it seated up to 17,000 people, and was the site of theatrical performances and gladiatorial battles (including flooding it for “boat jousting”). This is the oldest part of Paris that remains. It was all decked out for the Games with ping-pong tables, beach chairs, and a HUGE TV screen (that was showing ping-pong when we came through).

The current park was originally the sub-sub-basement of the amphitheatre. The surrounding walls are over 2,000 years old. While the Parisi tribe lived on the Isle de la Cite, the Romans dominated the rest of the area. This, however, was way out in the countryside. The Romans lived in this area for a couple of centuries, but after they were gone and time marched on, the amphitheatre fell into disarray. The stones were taken for other buildings, and the area became a trash pit. A lot of The Wall trash/stones/etc. was placed here because it was convenient, and once it was all filled in, everyone thought that the area was just a big hill!

In the 19th century the area was developed. As they were digging foundations, they found the remains of these walls. As they excavated, Victor Hugo (so say my notes?) was one of the leading voices stating that the area had to be preserved for people to come and use it. The built-in seating still remains after being excavated, and there are now South-facing vineyards (so the wine is drinkable, versus the Montmartre wine grapes, which are North-facing and bitter!).

The Bievre flows underneath, which allowed the Romans to flood the arena for water jousting, as mentioned above. It was basically a bunch of guys rowing, and a guy in front “with a stick” (per Hannah). She said that the ad for the new Gladiator movie actually shows this in action!

The alcoves, one of which you can see above, were actually the cut-outs in the sub basement wall that held the huge wooden pillars supporting the arena above.

Here are some random street shots. :-) Although I did not take a photo of it, we passed a mosque that has an amazing tea room and pastries, and Hannah said it was well worth a visit (we didn’t have time.).

This is a standpipe. Fresh drinking water has been running from it since 1636. There are still a few of these around Paris. But don’t forget the Wallace Fountains (we talked about these on the Maris tour), where Wallace, a British engineer, came to Paris and realized that the standpipes were few and far between, so people were drinking wine instead – basically staying drunk and dehydrated. (The photo above shows a worker retrofitting this Wallace fountain with the misters.)

Look what we found! Odette – the store our wonderful treats from the hotel came from!!

Remember the “boat logo” of Paris that we learned about at Montmartre? Here it is again! :-)

Lots more notes about history….

The inhabitants used to throw sewer waste out of the window before indoor plumbing. The king made folks yell “Gardez l’eau!” (“Watch out for water”) 3 seconds before doing it, so that you could “seek shelter.” “L’eau” was bastardized into “Loo” by the English…

George Orwell lived here…

la la la….

The Pantheon: Not to be missed. (Okay, I missed it because I was exhausted, but Leann and the Aments went!) It has been a building of importance since Roman times. Originally it was a forum, then in 1744 it was supposed to be a church dedicated to St. Genevieve and the construction was paid for (and she is interred there), but the 1789 French Revolution made France “secular” so it was only a church for a short while. (It has a cross on top from that era.)

After the Revolution it was deemed a “secular temple,” and after 1796, “great men” (75 of them) and women (6) were buried here who had “glorified the French homeland” and were important for that reason. In other words, you were buried here not because of your personal fame, but because of the contribution that you made to the Nation. (More than half of all the “pantheonisations” were made under Napoleon’s rule during the First Empire.)

While the usual method was to exhume someone and then re-bury them in the mausoleum here, Victor Hugo was one of the few people interred here immediately at his death. Others exhumed and re-buried here are Voltaire, Braille, Alexandre Dumas, Emile Zola, Soufflot (its architect), Jean Jacques Rousseau, and Marie Curie. Curie was the first woman interred. She was interred in 1995 with her husband, because she wasn’t “worthy” on her own – though she of course had 2 Nobel Prizes to her husband’s one. Their tombs are lead-lined, because their bodies are still radioactive. Two heroines of the French Resistance, Genevieve de Gaulle-Anthonioz and Germaine Tillion, were interred here in 2015.

Above: Eglise St. Julien Le Pauvre is the second oldest church in Paris (it’s older than Notre Dame). It is now an Orthodox church.

Speaking of Notre Dame, the top of the previous spire was a cockerel that had religious relics in it.

After the spire went crashing into the church during the fire, they figured that all was lost – but the cockerel was retrieved, and still had the relics in it.

The spire has been re-built, but atop it is now a phoenix to hold the relics.

The huge bell that all the Olympians who win gold are ringing is going to be installed in Notre Dame, so that Notre Dame can still be “part of” the Olympics like other iconic Parisian landmarks have been. It is inscribed with “Olympic Games of 2024” and will join the other two huge bells once they are re-installed in the belfry.

We walked past Shakespeare and Co., a 70 year old bookstore that’s pretty iconic. Writers (to this day) can live in bunks there, as long as they agree to work in the store, read a book a day, and write an autobiography. They’re called “tumbleweeds.”

Our tour ended at a park that used to be famous for the intellectuals espousing their theories, drinking wine and coffee at the cafes…then, it was infamous, as where the intellectuals were taken to be killed a few decades later by the Nazis.

Now, it is a “flea market.”

As pictured above, there are many wonderful food shops along the side (one has won many trophies for the Best Croissant in Paris, another Best Charcuterie for head cheese. Yuck – but a Herbert favorite!!). In the photo above, you can’t tell how HUGE the loaves of bread are. Quite easily as long as my forearm. (And it is not a short forearm!)

Leann and I couldn’t decide which Mali necklace Mom would like best – so I bought them both from this lovely woman. She threw in a “lucky bracelet” for “ma mere.”

We had lunch with the Aments – which included an unfortunate choice by the guys of what turned out to be Tripe – and the Mother-in-Law of all Croque Monsieurs for Leann, pictured to the left!

As I noted above, I went back to the hotel, and Leann when to the Pantheon with the Aments. Though the view from the Dome is supposed to be spectacular, everyone was a bit weary of the “stair traipsing”!

The Pantheon is located on the mountain of Paris’ patron saint, St. Genevieve (as mentioned before), which is why the panorama is considered to be so gorgeous. It contains the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Seine, etc. Though the view from Sacre Coeur is also fantastic, everything is SO far away. From the Pantheon, you are looking right down on it.

The Pantheon was built by the architect Soufflot at the behest of King Louis XV. The crypt is considered a “must see,” and most of these photos are from it. The other well known attraction is a copy of the pendulum of Foucault. In 1851, he conducted a demonstration of diurnal motion at the Pantheon by suspending a pendulum from the ceiling.

Could this actually be “it”!? I think so! Lots of thanks to those of you who have read this blog. I love doing it, and especially love going back and seeing “Where I have been.” Next blog post? Next year, in Africa! Cheers!!

Day 16 – Packing (boo hoo), Water Polo, Back to the Marais

Today started out by eating our croissants from the Boulangerie that has won many “best croissants” trophies (more on that when I upload Day 15) in bed. I worked on the blog (as you can see), then we sadly started packing which, of course, is always quite The Thing! (I taught Leann Herbert’s trick of packing anything that needs to go in the laundry inside-out, so when you unpack you can get those things straight into the washing machine!)

I did get Day 14 updated and published. When I input my notes from our Day 15, I realized that it would be hours and hours to get it right. So, I completed packing, dressed to head out to water polo, and off we went!

We had to get back on the RER train to get to the venue, but we’re old hats at this now. Unfortunately, we first used our Travel Card on Friday (for Trampoline), so we realized when we couldn’t scan through at the Metro that our 7 days were up!!! Boo hoo – 16 Euros for a few trips today! The 7 day pass was less than buying 7 days’ worth, though MUCH more than it would “usually” be. (The Metro price was jacked up for the Olympics.) Thank goodness we had purchased these back when we were at home and had them mailed to us, because we would constantly see folks trying to make the tickets “work” when we were traveling through.

This is a photo of a sign in the RER. “Poubelle” is one of my favorite French words. (Um, it means “garbage can” lol.) Others? Pamplemousse (grapefruit). Époustouflant (breathtaking). Merveilleux (Marvelous). Parapluie (Umbrella). éblouissante (Dazzling). Mignon (Cute). Bisous (Kisses). Aubergine (Eggplant, or a purple color). Bienvenue (Welcome). Etoile (Star). Flâner (To wander without a destination). Soupçon (A little bit.) Vivant (Alive). Deuxième (Second). Grenouille (Frog). Grisaille (Greyness). Pâtisserie (pastry shop). And, a new one from this trip, Quincaillerie (remember what that means…???)

In case you’re wondering, this is what a “cup of coffee” looks like at the Olympics. You can get straws of sugar, but no milk. (Even if you can, it’s whole milk. One gal asked if she “could have oat milk” at a restaurant, and the waiter waited a beat and said “No.”)

Not quite sure why there was a guy rowing around in a Zodiac and a scuba diver, but I’m sure there was a good reason? (I didn’t get my camera out in time to take the photo with the boat in the water, but the scuba diver is in the front right of this photo, above the Olympic rings).

Our first game was Italy versus Spain. The Spanish team was SO together. We wondered whether they were actually going to shutout the Italians – the Italians did get some points though.

My favorite part though was this Italian player’s son came out to “congratulate” him – Hey, dad’s always a winner in his book! :-)

American was against Serbia for our second game. Serbia was unbelievably good. I don’t know who they will be playing for the Gold, but I bet they’ll get it. America does have a chance for the Bronze depending on how they do in their next game. It wasn’t the greatest game ever – I do admit to yelling “Oh come ON!” more than once….

Taking the photos was such a funny experience. Back in high school, I was responsible for taking photos of the water polo team. Of course, I would take the photos – then have to wait a week until they were developed, to see if I had “gotten” anything at all. Now, I can check, crop, and be ready for the next shot in minutes.

Who’s this guy? The ball starts on a platform that raises up out of the water. We kept missing how the ball gets onto the platform. Well – it’s this guy, above!

Finally – one of the Netherland players sitting in the row ahead of us?

I had two things left in my “bucket list” for this trip. Well – there were others, but they were suggested by friends, so they were in our TripIt but we just didn’t have the time. My two things were to hit Les Enfants Rouges, the longest continually operating market in Paris, plus to go to The Red Door speakeasy.

We did make it to Les Enfants Rouges, walked around, but didn’t see what we wanted, so headed to Le Sancerre, a bistro right there in the area. What amazing burgers! Wow! Leann had a mojito, I had a Moscow Mule. When we were in the bistro, it POURED rain! But luckily, it was just a “squall.”

Then we used CityMapper to get us to The Red Door. It was a bit funny – we stopped right where it actually is, but didn’t see “anything.” Well, of course we didn’t. That’s the deal. LOL.

The Red Door has an Alice of Wonderland theme – so the actual “red door” is only about 4 feet tall. There was a striped blue and white wall next to it, and a gentleman in a boater hat. I suddenly realized – duh – that IS the Red Door. I walked up to him and said in French “Um, is this a bar?” He said “Why?” I said “Can we come in?” He went and checked inside, then said “Follow me.”

We actually walked through the blue and white wall “next to” the red door. I was happy about that, because I’m not sure I could have gotten in via the red door! (Feeling very much like Alice after drinking the beverage that grew her as big as a house!)

This bar is set up like a speakeasy. They have their own cocktails, a great ambiance, etc. I was just so happy that we made it! The bar stools and chairs are so big that everyone had their legs dangling, and we were up in a “loft” type area where the waiter had to duck to serve us.

We got home to wash the “Olympic Schmutz” off, and it reminded me how much I wanted to call out the hotel’s bathroom. ?What? Yes, bathroom. They used a “fake wood” on the floor, and also in the shower. It looks really great. Moreover, it has a rainforest shower head in the ceiling, plus a hand-held, both with amazing pressure. Yay!

As I mentioned, I’m doing Day 16 (our last day – boo hoo!) today instead of Day 15, because Day 15 was packed. I guess I will try to do it on the plane.

Finally, we tried to find a Patisserie open when we were on our way back (for one last treat), but alas, too late in the day. So Leann headed over to Pizza Sorrento to get us a tiramisu, I dug my travel “spork” out of the luggage, and we’re finishing up!

Day 14 – Montmartre & Seine Dinner Cruise

Today, we did a “Wine, Cheese, and Patisserie” tour of Montmartre. What a great way to see this part of the city!

Right as Leann and I exited the Metro we were at the Moulin Rouge. This street, “Pigalle,” was the border between the 9th arrondissement and the 11th – which was tax free. Therefore, the 11th “side” of this street was the ‘best place to party’ (and where the Moulin Rouge is located). People would “sneak out” of the more bourgeois parts to party with the artists, painters, actors, singers, and dancers. This area was the most important area for this sort of “artist culture” as our guide, Hugo, put it.

In 1886, Toulouse Latrec was the master of the parties in the area, whether at the Arc de Triomphe (which was a big place to party) or at the Moulin Rouge where he is now well known (especially via the movie). The actual mills on Montmartre in the 14th Century ground anything that needed to be ground – grapes, flour, stones, etc – so the plaza outside the Moulin Rouge (where we were standing) was referred to as “Place Blanche” because it had a fine covering of the flour/stone/etc from the mill that was located here.

At the end of the 18th Century, the Moulin Rouge was the first building to be electrified in Paris.

After hearing this history of the area, we headed for our first “treat.”

I was quite taken actually by the baker making enormous brioche in the back of this bakery, but we were treated to treats made from an old recipe that had been recently revived. (In the photos, she’s snipping the tops of the brioche so they cook right – you can see the line in the cooked ones.)

Our treats had a very thin meringue base, with flavored cream on top and a bit of a nut or flake shell to keep it all together.

Which flavor would you have?

Phryges again – this time on a UPS-type delivery truck. And in a hammock!

Next? “French” onion soup from Chez Marie. The story is that the king was hungry late one evening and started throwing things together, because he really didn’t know how to cook, and this is what he came up with. :-) However – get this – onion soup went to the USA with French immigrants, and then (per Hugo) Italian immigrants there added the big cap of melted cheese to it! Then, it “emigrated” back to France, and the grilled cap of melted cheese became A Thing.

I learned a new word, “Quincaillerie” – which basically is an “old” word for an “Everything Store.” (Hugo said it was the sort of word his grandmother would use – there are a few of these stores throughout Paris and I hadn’t known what the word meant.)

Next was a *delicious* quiche. Hugo had quiche Lorraine, and a leek quiche, and we all had a big piece. (I took the leek quiche as the quiche Lorraine uses pork belly and I try to not eat pork.) Alsace-Lorraine is in the Northeastern part of France, and was taken over by the Germans for a while. But as Hugo said, these folks are known to “never give up” and it is now back part of France.

This region is known for folks working in the field, and so a quiche was a way that you could have a crust, eggs, and “left overs” for lunch if you couldn’t get home, in a “grab and go” fashion.

As an aside, to be deemed a “boulangerie,” legally you must make the dough at the bakery. They get up at 4 a.m. to get the dough going, rise, etc, sell it all day, and then give it over for example to be in the bread in the top of onion soup the next day.

Here’s another super interesting fact. Baguettes are only like 120 years old. How could that be, for something so synonymous with “France”?

Originally, miche was the bread made in Paris. You would bring one with you, and cut it up with your knife to eat it. However, when the Metro diggers were working underground they got a bit stir-crazy and started knife fights. Knives were therefore forbidden. So, how could you bring your bread and cut it up? You couldn’t. Therefore, the baguette was invented, because it was a bread that you tore up to eat.

Another word origin that was related to this was the French word “Copain.” It basically means a “pal.” The usual word that you’d use would be “Ami” for friend. But back in the dark in the Metro, you would refer to someone that was “okay to share your bread with” as a co-pain (“pain” means “bread” in French). Aha!

We passed by some marvelous shops just on the street, including my personal favorite, the “Merde” brand wine shop. If you’re going to name your wine “Merde” it had better be good – and apparently it is. It has been served at Macron’s parties. (The shop wasn’t open or I would have raided them.)

After this, we were treated to chocolate from Chocolat Ilene. It is well known in Paris because it is excellent chocolate, but the cooks are Korean and like to mix in Korean tastes. The chocolate that Hugo got for us to “make us guess” turned out to be wasabi (I didn’t taste it). All I cared about was that it wasn’t Kimchee chocolate!!!! I went inside to see the chocolates that they had hand-crafted (the middle egg is *solid* chocolate) and the store was quite cold. They were very strict about you shutting the door after yourself. Our guide had told us this, but tourists were walking in and out and just holding the door open – the chocolatiers were getting a little irate. At least we were forewarned and were “good” tourists.

Another interesting fact: Chocolate was originally served as a liquid. Marie Antoinette was *crazy* about chocolate. She apparently had very severe headaches, and wouldn’t take her medicine, because (per our guide) she was stubborn and spoiled. Therefore, the doctor had chocolate made into a solid so that he could put the meds into it. !!!

Our next treat was Choupettes de Chou Chou. Our guide told us that you always buy a whole bag of them when you need a present. He also said that it was (his words) a “strong move” if you need to apologize. It says “Please, be kind to me.” He told us a story of missing a deadline in college and bringing a sack of 20 of them to his professor (and it worked). He also said that the best part about giving folks a sack of these is that the person you give them to then “becomes a hero” as s/he would share them. “Chou Chou” is a pet name, and “Choupette” is a bit of a “pet name” for these pastries. (NOTE: These are what we received from the hotel, from Odette – one of the top ones in Paris)

Hugo then told us about the Wallace fountains (we walked past one). He made the point that after 1872/the Prussian invasion, the Prussians besieged Paris for almost a year and broke all the aqueducts. Therefore, the Parisians moved over to wine instead of water – which made them basically alcoholics. Wallace, an Englishman, gifted them to Paris. (We had heard about them during our Marais tour, and you saw photos of them back then.)

We learned about St. Jean Des Abbesses church, which took 10 years to build and was opened in 1994. It is the “little sister” of the 1st church in the area, which is now more of a Catholic family “gathering place,” further up the hill. While most folks were Catholic for a long time now there are far fewer, so they turned the 1st church into a Catholic community gathering place.

Our guide, Hugo, grew up on Rue Des Martyrs. In the 1st century, this area was still Roman, and as we all know, Romans weren’t crazy about Catholics. Saint Denis was preaching the Bible, which the Romans definitely did not like – they killed him to keep him from spreading “this poison.”

The story is that the two soldiers that were supposed to climb St. Denis up to the top of the hill and behead him “got lazy” mid-climb and instead beheaded him on the spot we were then standing. Supposedly, he fell, got up, grabbed his head, and walked up to the top of the hill to die there. (Name of the area? Mont-martre – hill of the martyrs).

Next, we were treated to a baguette, cheese, and wine sit-down, The cheeses were:

*a 12 month old Comte (our current favorite cow cheese)

*an Ossau-Sraty (that doesn’t seem right, but that’s what I have in my notes and seems to be written on the bottom of the board)

*a bleu d’Auvergne (very very “light” blue cheese)

*Saint-Maure-de-Touraine, which is a goat cheese; it has a hole in the middle, which means it’s good/young…they put it on like a brochette stick and roll it in vegetable ashes…if there is NOT a hole, then the cheese isn’t fresh, it’s filled in

*finally, a Brie de Meaux. Hugo told us that Brie is one of the first things that kids eat as babies.

All their cheeses are unpasteurized.

The wine was a Bordeaux-blend red from Bellevue. 75% merlot, 25% cabernet. Hugo said that the Bordeaux bottles are said to have “noble masculine wine shoulders.” (As opposed to a Burgundy/pinot that has “sloping” shoulders.) It was a bit “merlot-sweet” with light tannins, red fruit and spice on the palate. Once it sat for a while it opened up and you got a bit more of a hit from the Cabernet, but it was always quite soft.

The white wine was “Le Gris de Titi” – a sauvignon gris from the Loire. Titi is actually the name of the owner of the restaurant where we were eating! This wine had a honey or white flower nose, but then was more “grey rock” on the tongue. I liked it.

Next on the eating “menu” were madeleines from Gilles Marshal. They are originally from Alsace-Lorraine (and were SO delicious – not like any “madeleine” I have ever tasted). The story goes that in the 15th century, King Stanislaus was a big party giver in a smaller version of Versailles (think it was *in* Lorraine). He ran out of party desserts and asked his servants to make something quick. A girl spoke up and made a butter-based small “cake” and baked it in coquille (scallop) shells (which were in the kitchen to be used for coquilles St. Jacques). The girl who “saved the day” was named – you guessed it – Madeleine.

There is actually a phrase in French called “un madeleine de Proust.” A “madeleine de Proust” is an expression used to describe smells, tastes, sounds, or any sensation that reminds you of your childhood or simply brings back emotional memories from your past. Proust used the smell of madeleines and how they made him hearken back to the scents of his Aunt Leonie’s kitchen in the book “In Search of Lost Time.” If you want to read more about it (it’s fascinating), go HERE.

In Montmartre, the bottom of the hill was more “working class,” whereas the top of the hill were more the artists, singers (Edith Piaf, Dalida), dancers, etc Picasso’s “Blue Period” and Cubism started here – supposedly to try to find a way to show a body without details, as many of the women had contracted syphilis, which causes big marks/welts on the body. Picasso had always been inspired by dancers, and many of the dancers had “another profession” because they did not make that much.

“Le Moulin de la Galette” (a salty crepe) was next on our itinerary. For centuries, the mills around Paris were owned by a great Prussian invader family. Then, in 1870, Napoleon III (remember him? Of shooting Victor Noir “fame”?) – 100 years after the revolution – (my notes say) “was taunted by the Prussians and lost because they were such huge fighters.” However, the Prussians “then decided to just walk to Paris and take it,” but “at the time of the French Revolution, everyone owned a gun.” I have some more notes about the Belleville area being out in the country and was taken, but next door, Montmartre was too difficult for cannons and fought like Hell and so wasn’t taken, though the invaders broke all the aqueducts. The owner who had owned all the mills (and had fought for the enemy) was cut up and his parts were strung up on the vanes of the windmill.

Then, my notes say “Revolution -> Riots/flee to Versailles -> tough time/brought back the Republic in the middle of Napoleon. People on the Hill fought so hard that the sewers were completely clogged with bodies and blood. Napoleon annexed everything to keep control.” Yes, if I had more time, I would have tried to make sense of these notes, but, Nope. (Sorry!)

Many, many artists painted this mill – on the side of the Moulin restaurant are copies of portraits by Renoir (“Bal Des Galettes”) of either the owner, or Renoir, and his wife dancing – plus there was a board up about Van Gogh and his painting of the area.

The above were found in a little park that our guide had always liked from when he was young. As you can see, it features a statue of St. Denis holding his head (since we are now at the top of the hill). The mosaic floor as you step into the park shows the quintessential French boat that you see everywhere, especially along the Seine, which represents the symbol of Paris that “France floats but never sinks.”

We learned where the word “Bistro” came from. HERE you go.

There is a vineyard in the Montmartre area, but it is North-facing and so is uniformly considered to be ‘crappy wine.’ (I am writing this on Day 15, and we passed some grapes over in the Latin Quarter that are in mainly South-facing areas, so that wine, though it doesn’t make many bottles, is considered to be very good wine. Both are owned by the City.) There is a big celebration in Montmartre near the end of September/beginning of October that is a LOT of fun per our guide Hugo that includes a wine parade and has been going on since 1933.

Avenue Junot is Paris’ “little Hollywood” – a number of actors make their homes here.

We came to our last “treat” at this point, which was a macaron store, Carette.

This store has been making macarons for 100 years and they are fresh with a super generous filling.

Just like the Madeleines, these tasted like no macaron we had ever had. Just unbelievably good.

Sacre Coeur was built at the end of the 19th century, to show that Montmartre was now fully part of Paris, not an outlying obstreperous area. It is built out of Fontainbleu stone (I think my notes say?) that is well known for being “self-cleaning” when it rains (so it remains gleaming white).

The ribbons made into what looks like a rose window is the “Emblematic Dial” of the Guard of Honor of the Sacred Heart, established by a Visitation nun from Bourg-en-Bresse in 1863. Each day, members of the Guard of Honor choose one hour and, without changing their usual occupations, offer that moment to the Heart of Jesus.

I was VERY taken by the mosaics that you see of the “gentlemen,” the soldier, and the guy leaning against the wall. If you look at the big Jesus mosaic, they are down to the right, in the “closest right” curve of the bottom of the arc. Since there was a service going on I couldn’t get closer to them – but would love to know their story!

Sacre Coeur was blessed by the Pope, and for 135 years, it has had prayers/services 24/7/365 to “atone” for all the “sins” of the Hill. It does close for 1 hour now during the day – though it was 24 hours when he was a kid. The statues on the front are of King Charles (who has his sword upside down and his crown in his hand), and Joan of Arc, victorious.

Leann and the Aments were very brave, and climbed the stairs up to the dome to see out towards the city! 292 steps!!! (What did I do? <Ahem> Edited photos for the blog. Yes, yes I did.)

For those who are John Wick fans like myself, as you know, the stairs at Sacre Coeur were used in John Wick 4. On the way down, we passed not only a ton of the locks on the fences, but the carousel. Every time that Herbert and I would travel and we came upon a carousel, he would pay to have me ride it. He knew that I just loved carousels. I have ridden them in Vienna, Central Park, San Francisco, etc. It made me a bit sad, because I realized that what I really loved about riding carousels that we came across while traveling was that Herbert loved that I loved carousels.

We were able to go home for a tiny bit of time (what did we do? Leann took a wee nap. I tried to upload blog photos. Story of my life). Then we headed out to our dinner cruise on the Seine!

When we got out of the Metro, Leann realized that we were right at the “Eternal Flame” statue that stands over the underpass where Princess Diana died. She is a big Princess Di person, and we had written off the idea of making it to this area as it’s pretty out of the way. Come to find out that it’s where our boat was docked!

We had a very serviceable dinner, the live music was *exceptional.* We actually thought that it was recorded, because the violinist was just so outstanding. Bravo, anonymous violinist. :-)

Between dinner and dessert, Leann and I headed up to the top level, particularly so that we could see the Eiffel Tower do its “twinkle thing”! Since I’ve been at this blog for the better part of 7 hours (the most arduous part being the photo uploading), I’m just going to plop all the “dinner cruise related” photos here, and, perhaps, I will re-order them if I find time. Quick notes:

*There were hundreds of people out picnicking along the Seine. They waved, sent us “heart hands,” etc. It was so great to see – people really enjoying the evening and the (almost?) clean river.

*The very industrial-looking grey weird building is the Ministry of Finance.

*There are river boats along the canal of the Seine where people live – and some are rented out as VRBOs.

*The stands were for the Opening Ceremony.

*The “original” Statue of Liberty (remember, France gave her to the U.S.) is about 1/10th? the size of the one in New York.

*Some of the photos are a little blurry – sorry about that. :-) Also if you see the “lines” horizontally, it’s because we were shooting through the window at our table.

*Loved the colored statues :-)

Day 15 steps: 18,957 (Yes, I know that I am writing about Day 14, but I keep forgetting to write in the steps so I thought I would be proactive)

On Day 15 we had a lovely tour of the Latin Quarter (spoiler alert – it has nothing to do with salsa and tacos).

On Day 16, we will PACK in the morning (boo hoo), then we go to what is going to (hopefully) be a very exciting men’s water polo game, and (since we will be packed) we will then (again, hopefully) go to two things I really want to do in the Marais.

Then, to bed, as we have to catch an Uber (gack) at 5 a.m. to the airport.

Day 13 – Opera, Arc de Triomphe, Galeries Lafayette, Skateboarding

Today we only had the Olympic Skateboarding Women’s Final on the docket, so we headed out to check a few more things off Leann’s bucket list :-)

First, we headed to the Arc de Triomphe. Though you can get on top, it was (as one can imagine) a queue of epic proportions and spendy, so we took a few photos. We also wound up heading to a “Pharmacie” on the corner, which was one of the most bougie things we’d ever seen LOL. (The cafe outside was by Moët & Chandon and the restaurant in their basement has a Michelin star, so that tells you something.)

They have a bakery that contains “the” thing from each boulangerie or patisserie all around Paris – for example the Mont Blanc from Angelina, the Miche from Poilane, etc. One could just go to the drugstore each day and have “the” thing from a baker somewhere in town!

I stopped myself from purchasing a purse shaped like a croissant LOL They did have quite an amazing array of books, gift-type-things, reading glasses…(I guess you can tell what took my “squirrel” attention in there.)

It was a bit difficult to get into the Opera, but it’s been Leann’s favorite place so far. I think she was trying to figure out why I was really pressing for her to see it – Now she knows LOL. It is undergoing a lot of construction, and there are signs if you have already purchased a ticket – but not if you don’t have one. I finally saw a guard by a side door, and asked where to get tickets. There was a sign next to him that very specifically said in French, basically, “No ticket, no entry.” He looked at me a bit like I was stupid, but pointed in the door at which he sat, and said we had to scan through security, then the ticket purchasing booth was on the other side, in a hallway. Again – not quite sure what the “No ticket, no entry” sign was about, but it definitely *did* keep the visitors down inside!

We saw the Chagall ceiling from one of the boxes, and some of the costumes where they are “remaking” operas to be more modern. This reminded me a bit of the S.F. Opera performance I went to a month or so ago of the Magic Flute, which might have been my favorite performance of that opera ever.

In the area that for “having snacks, walking around and being seen” (per the sign) – on the other side of the building from the actual audience area – we found a “clock” that was quite amazing. It indicated the month via the “short” hand, and the “long” hand pointed at the day (Tuesday) and date (6th). We were curious what happened in leap years…?

Leann said that it was all she could do not to start singing “Masquerade” from Phantom of the Opera on the entry stairs :-)

After the Opera, we visited the Galeries Lafayette, one of the first “malls” ever. Again, I think Leann was trying to figure out why I wanted her to see a mall, until we walked in. :-) The stained glass ceiling, etc is just So Parisian LOL. In the photo you can see that they have a glass walkway to go out and take photos from!

From there, we walked past the Louis Vuitton store that is being remodeled. It is wrapped up like an enormous LV trunk. (The jumping gold horse is from LV). Then past the Hermes store, where we stopped ourselves from walking in and purchasing the $$$$ dog bandanas they had in the window. Finally, we had lunch at a cafe. We didn’t quite head far enough off the “spendy path” – this was one of our most expensive lunches and we only had some “pommes frites,” a charcuterie plate, and “citron presse”!

We then headed over to the Skateboarding venue, which is in the Place de la Concorde. It’s SO WEIRD to see the Champs Elysees as a “footpath” as it were – with zero cars!

We tried to go to a few spots that I wanted to visit, but it was impossible given all the road closures, barriers, etc. We had a blast at Skateboarding, and Leann found out belatedly that a guy at her work knew a ton of the skaters, including the American (who unfortunately didn’t do great), and the U.K and Australian, who took first and third!

The obelisk that you see in the photos is where folks were beheaded during the French Revolution. This whole area looks SO DIFFERENT with all the Olympics “venues”! Besides the Skateboarding, we were able to see a duo breakdancing outside the breakdancing arena. This area has the 3 on 3 basketball, BMX bikes, breakdancing, and skateboarding. Obviously they can’t leave anything up here, but hopefully they will move the skateboarding/BMX “areas” somewhere that kids can use them. (Then again, perhaps they are like venues for the World’s Fair, etc that are not meant to be permanent installations.)

Back home, and we discovered THE sweetest note and some amazing profiteroles (or so I thought they were called – more on that tomorrow!) from the hotel! When we checked in, the reservation guy was super surprised that we were here for eleven days. I guess the hotel gave us a thank you in the best way possible – patisserie!

Back to our Very Favorite pizzeria next door, then caught the blog up a bit (I’m 2 days behind due to bad photo uploading), and called it a night!

Step count for Tuesday: 12,293

Spoiler Alert – Step count for Wednesday: 13,539, HOWEVER, Leann climbed 27 flights of stairs :-) (For my week, I have 85 floors climbed per my watch – has to be the Metro – and 14.16 miles walked.)

Day 12 – Marais tour via Earful Tower

Leann’s delicious ham and cheese croissant from Le Peloton Cafe.

Okay, so *first* of all, if you are at all interested in Paris, you need to subscribe to the podcasts/YouTube videos/email newsletter from Earful Tower. Trust me on this. I am now a Patreon supporter (plus, I did a huge support of their latest kids’ book, so I have a “street named after me” in the “Paris map” in the back!). It’s just so well worth it. Oliver Gee is Australian. Amazingly (to me, since I’ve followed him nearly from “when he started”) he has now been on the Today Show, did a description of Phryges (and why the French love this mascot so much) on NBC-TV, etc. He and his wife (who is ?Swedish?) also do children’s books that are just charming.

We are doing two tours with Earful Tower, one in the Marais (which is on their website), and one with our friends who are also at the Olympics, in the Latin Quarter.

Since there are six of us, Oliver agreed to set up a tour there, after I saw his “walk around” on YouTube of the Latin Quarter, and knew that our friends had their VRBO there.

Our tour guide, Hannah, met us at the Peloton Cafe. She was wonderful. Her parents had a home in France so she had been visiting “since a zygote,” but has a super charming Irish accent. She has lived full time in Paris for quite a few years now. (She also does cycling tours, and will be doing our Latin Quarter tour.)

We started off by learning a bit about the way that Paris used to look before Napoleon III (who is the one who shot Victor Noir, remember?) hired Haussmann to basically come in and knock down 1,000s of these houses to give Paris its uniform “Look.” In the top middle photo below, the Haussmann buildings are on the left and right of the original buildings. Napoleon III had been exiled in Britain which, after its big fire, had rebuilt in a more modern way, including enclosed sewers, etc. When Napoleon came back, Paris had no sewers, so that was fixed, but more importantly, it was only about 100 years after the Revolution and Napoleon figured if there were riots, he wanted access for his cannons to get in and “take care of business,” which was next to impossible in the streets as they were. Haussmann buildings all follow the same formula – shops at the bottom, 8 stories tall, with balconies on 1 and 6/7. It was also an extremely efficient way to pack a lot of people into a smaller space – Paris is not that big.

One of the interesting things is that – due to the flats being pretty small and therefore kitchens being pretty small – folks don’t shop for that much “all at once” and also eat out more. Hence so many cafes.

The pre-Haussmann homes that remain are very, very difficult to maintain. They were owned by the super rich in Haussmann’s time and in fact, it seems that many of them are still within “the family” all these 100s of years later. (They just looked down their noses at the folks dictating that they were “required” to do this renovation for the good of Paris and said, “Mais, Non.”)

Given that I am currently going through an enormous renovation at *my* house, I definitely understand the issue!

Next we talked about the Wallace fountains, which you can see above. There were about 200 of these all around Paris (there are about 50 left). Paris is crazy about water – in fact, France has two water museums, and there are “Keepers” of the Wallace fountains! These fountains give fresh, clean water (and since I was in Paris last, some have even been retrofitted with misters; to keep the temperature down in Paris, the misters go off now and again). Originally there were cups attached to chains, so people just used the cups to drink their portion from the fountain. The problem was that the cups were *never* cleaned. They were blamed for an enormous COVID-like outbreak a few 100 years ago, and so the government removed the cups (but left the fountains, thank goodness). I believe that Hannah said that instead of the Wallace fountains, they now have more modern ones, that give both still and sparkling water.

I only took a few notes while we were doing this tour so, though I have lots of photos, I can only explain a few of them :-) The photos above are of the wall that used to surround Paris. Philippe Augustus didn’t want to go to the Crusades, though he was expected to go. He didn’t want to leave Paris vulnerable, especially as England had breached the coast. The wall was 16 miles in circumference – Oliver (remember? Earful Tower?) took an old map of the Wall and a new map, and has made it his “mission” to uncover where the Wall is now. :-)

Interestingly, about 450 years after Philippe Augustus, Louis XIV decided that he needed to break through the Wall. Seems like he felt that he was the most powerful ruler and that he didn’t need a wall, his “reputation” would be enough to keep people away.

The wall had been the city of Paris v. the “Country” border, and of course had had towers, with gates in them to drop portcullises (portculli?) and close the city off. There is one left that we were able to see. As you’d need to surrender your weapons at the gate before entering the city, the “men in arms” inside Paris were “gens des armes” – or “gendarmes” (the name of the Metropolitan police to this day).

Then we learned a story about the Duke of Montgomery, who was imprisoned in this particular tower, because he accidentally killed the king in a fencing duel (WHOOPS). Catherine de Medici was his wife and told him not to do the duel, but the king poo-poo’d her fears . . . Yeah, listen to your wife when she has fears, sweetie . . .

The Duke was imprisoned in the tower for four years; when her husband was dying, the king made Catherine promise that she would not be bitter and would ultimately release the Duke. She did what her husband wanted, but then the Duke joined the rebellion to remove her from power….yeah, she had him beheaded. Not only that, she had it written into the law that any of his relatives “to the end of time” would be disinherited, couldn’t own land, etc. Apparently this law was standing until fairly recently.

On the street above – “Street of the Fig Tree” (the huge trees are figs) – you can see a building that still has a *cannon ball* in the wall from July 28, 1830. I particularly loved this gargoyle (which gets its name from the French word for “gargle” – which they do with the rainwater, since they are downspouts).

Believe that the name of the church that we visited (behind the red door) was St. Paul’s. The area was very wealthy – this had been Victor Hugo’s church. Cardinal Richelieu was the first cardinal here – at least, that’s what my notes say. What my notes *actually* say are “delicious liberty leading the people, red hat, cardinal Richelieu first, original delicious here”…?? Because I was typing my notes into my cell phone, instead of writing them down in a notebook as I have *always* done before, obviously Siri took over as I was typing. Suffice it to say, I have no idea what “delicious” is supposed to be. Sigh.

Nearly positive the oil of the saint – or perhaps Jesus – holding his hand up to the angels, wrapped in sort of an orange toga – is by Delacroix. Aha! Perhaps “Delacroix” is “delicious”….? :-)

Note St. Louis (remember him, King Louis X, patron saint of…all together now…hairdressers and horse grooms) up in the alcove.

In the 1870s, St. Paul’s was (as I mentioned), very bourgeois, and the Communards (NOT “Communists”) took it over for a couple of months. They felt that they would have some traction if they took over the church. Instead, they were taken out to Pere Lachaise and shot against a wall there. (We did see this area at Pere Lachaise, just didn’t quite understand what it was about.) The “graffiti” above was left on an inside pillar of the church basically as a warning not to do this sort of thing again.

I always buy candles and light them for my Mom’s mom, “Tutu” to me, when I am in any Roman Catholic Churches. That’s what you see here. However – why is it that you are seeing two *different* sets of candles being lit?

Because the blog software wouldn’t let me upload. Later on (when we were on our own), we walked over to St. Eustache, which featured in the story that I wrote when here in my 40s (and also in my favorite book that sort of “explains” about how Parisians feel about Paris, “Almost French”).

So now, I can’t tell which church pictures are which church, as it’s now been two days since we did this tour and my brain is melting. I do know that the “fatter” candles are from St. Paul and the “tapers” are from St. Eustache.

I also know that the lit ladder “to heaven” is at St. Eustache (there was an installation there of light-related art), as is the Keith Haring gold triptych.

At St. Eustache, a service was going on, which we avoided and of course didn’t take photos of. The funniest thing though (to me) was the priest cleaning his hands very thoroughly with hand sanitizer from a squirt container on the altar before handing out the Host. Hmmmmmmm, body of (slightly chemical tasting) Christ for you….? St. Eustache was the stand-in for Notre Dame after it burned right after Easter, Hannah told us.

OKAY, AND…the oil of Napoleon crowning Josephine as his Empress above is from VERSAILLES, but I have been trying to upload it for days and it just “popped in” as one of the church photos. So I’m leaving it. Take THAT, Napoleon. You’re going to be here, not at bougie Versailles. (I happened to really like this oil, but was ready to fuggedaboudit, then it just popped in here.) Note – since obviously Napoleon always must have “ze last laugh” – the only spot I can move that photo is a big one. Yes really. Classic Emperor….

The walk took us through what is obviously a D&S area – a few photos above of some of the shop fronts. I sent them to my friend James whose burlesque/drag King personality is Harry Sass (say it out loud….) – he immediately responded that if the shoes were his size, I had to buy them because he didn’t have any animal print in Harry’s closet. Um, yeah, I love you James but 300 euros just wasn’t in my pocket….

The Marais is built on a swamp – the buildings are a bit wonky. As usual, you could have bought a number of these buildings for a song a while back – they were in terrible shape – but now, yeah, Nope. Okay, and Victor Hugo did NOT live here. And – from Versailles – Poseidon has just inserted himself. You’re welcome.

This was where they made the food for the Orient Express – the tracks are where they would take the food out to go to the train.

Note the hooks under the eaves on the photos to the left, above? It used to be a butcher shop and that’s where the butchers would hang their “wares.” Now, even if you are selling something else, you must leave these remnants on the shop. On the big one, the pictures are of people milling and farming wheat – since a lot of the population was illiterate, this indicated to them it was a bakery.

These “bumpers” are so that carriages could get straight into a courtyard. Once you know what they are, you see them everywhere – some are pipes, some are shaped like dolphins, etc.

The above is a sundial – what’s missing? The number 7. This building, however, is “#7” and so one of the theories is that 7 is missing is because the owners thought “WE are 7.” LOL.

We headed to the Place de Vosges. In 1605, it was the “royal square” – this was before the royalty moved out to Versailles. The king had his living quarters on one side of the park, the queen on the other. During that time there was a tax on glass, so people would come to the park at the Place de Vosges, and “faint at the sight of” all the glass surrounding that park. Not only that, but the terra cotta bricks were incredibly rare, as they had to be imported from Italy.

The houses to the side of the king’s and queen’s were given as gifts – now, this is the most expensive real estate in Paris. About 80 years ago, the whole houses were changed to flats because the taxes were so high (though the same family does live in a few of them still). The little “garret” studio apartments at the top are 10×10, and rent out for something like $1,600/month – recently one sold for something completely insane (in the multiple millions). This park is different than most in Paris – where you’re not even allowed to *look* at the grass, much less walk on it – as the families can use it to picnic, play with their kids, etc.

The mansion to the right in the photo (that looks super white) is actually covered with a print to show what the building “will” look like. It was bought by a French jillionaire, who has now spent more than he paid for for the building, and there is more to do. It was $25 million (purchase) and $31 million so far (reno), in my mind.

Joseph Migneret, named above, saved so many children from the Nazis in Paris that he was commemorated. (The Marais is still a Jewish district – well, and a LGBTQ district – and….) The French have a “problematic” relationship with WW2, because so many collaborated, and actually knew what was going on with the deportations, etc. (That was detailed on the monuments in Pere Lachaise as well.)

The names on the wall are of children from this neighborhood that were *not* saved. Note the ages. (“Ans” = years, “Mois” = months, “Jours” = Days)

The museum on the right is on the history of Paris – super accessible (as opposed to, say, the Louvre!)

Phrygis is everywhere. This is from the side of a postal van speeding past.

Here are just some random photos from the neighborhood….Rue Des Francs Bourgeois may not be “the street of perfumers,” but every single store along this small road was indeed a cologne or perfume shop of some kind, and the entire street was scented!

And then, below is where we wound up for our late afternoon “snack” of a crepe with lemon and sugar (me) and a strawberry sorbet for Leann. I mentioned to Leann that she should practice ordering “eau petillante” (bubbly water), since she always gets a liter. When she was ready to order, she practiced on me, and asked for “eau papillon” (butterfly water). It was The Best Ever. I did tell her I would do the ordering, but – Hello! – that’s our new name for bubbly water!!

I know, I know, I’m woefully behind on the blog. Here’s the deal. Today (which is Day 13) we had NOTHING until 5:30 p.m. We wanted to get out by about noon to visit the Arc de Triomphe, the Opera, and the Galeries Lafayette. We got up early, had breakfast in the hotel . . . And the blog wouldn’t let me in. Then it wouldn’t upload photos. So ultimately, I had to leave, having done ZERO, NOTHING, BUPKIS. I super feel behind now too.

From today (Day 13) I have to upload Arc de Triomphe, Opera (Leann’s favorite spot so far), Galeries Lafayette, Women’s Skateboarding Finals, Pizza at our local amazing place. (Steps today = 12,267)

Tomorrow (Day 14) we have two tours with the Aments – a food/wine/patisserie tour of the Montmartre area, and a Seine dinner cruise. There will be more photos. If this software won’t let me in, I can’t keep up. And I’m not happy. :-(

Aaaaaand, today IS tomorrow (Day 14) – I’m trying!

Day 11 – Versailles & Beach Volleyball at the Eiffel Tower

Spoiler Alert: Day 11: 21,142 steps.

Today (Day 12): 9,135 steps.

And our various “leg parts” feel it.

But, onward!

I’m definitely behind by a day. I thought I could do both Days 11 and 12 today, but I’ve been at this now for 8 hours and – yeah – nope. The good thing is that we don’t have anything “set” until tomorrow at 5:30 p.m., so I can hopefully not only annotate this one from my notes but also get the photos from today ready to go before that.

We did get up a bit later on Day 11, because our Versailles Tour (plus gardens) with GetYourGuide wasn’t until 12:30.

Just a small advertisement for GetYourGuide. When I was making reservations for this trip with the Amex Concierge, there were some tours that she could not book herself. She told me to go to GetYourGuide, as they were the tour outfit that the concierge’s “clients” had had the best luck with – good value for money, on-the-dime ability to swap dates/times (or get a refund), fantastic guides, etc.

We had our Versailles tour a couple of days from now, but we realized that because Versailles is a real haul out of town, we’d have to turn straight around and come back for the Olympics women’s skateboarding final. With just over 24 hours’ notice, I pulled up GetYourGuide and was able to swap out the date. It was so easy, I was sure I had done it wrong! However, I immediately received an email detailing our new tour, etc. It was straightforward and exceedingly simple. The guides we have had have all been uniformly great. The one tour that was “meh” was the Jack The Ripper tour, but (as I have stated before), since most of the “locales” where JTR hunted are gone, we don’t feel that any JTR tour is really worth it. Our *guide* for that tour, however, was exceptional.

So what are the delicious things that you see interspersed in this run-up to the write-up? A gal on TikTok that Leann follows had raved about a bakery – come to find out, it is a franchise, and one is across the street! (Yes, I have now told you about the pizza place, Cafe Central (the onion soup/burger/etc place), and now, this bakery – good hotel choice, eh?.)

We headed over – I got a coffee and an apple “fold-over,” Leann got the raspberry tart that the TikTok gal raved about. Well – NOM NOM NOM.

This franchise makes the “Crookiz” by rolling out croissant dough, putting chocolate chip cookie dough on top of that, and rolling it up. We actually got one today (Day 12) as a pick-me-up – a bit odd, in my opinion not as great as a cronut. But there you go.

Versailles! SO MANY PICTURES! Sylvan, our guide, was great and helped us to avoid the bulk of the tourists. There were maybe ten of us in the tour of the buildings, and then Leann and I were the only ones to carry on into the gardens.

On the way to Versailles, we saw the Eiffel Tour and the Flame in the air from off the side of the train, and thought we’d be able to take a photo on the way home – unfortunately, by that time the Flame was back down! :-(

Versailles: The entrance. Last time I was at Versailles the two things I remember were: (1) getting hot charcoal-brazed chestnuts right outside the train station to put in my pockets ‘cos it was so cold and (2) how black the buildings were. Come to find out that the gilding is new (at least, newer than 40 years ago), part of it paid for by a millionaire who was taken by Versailles and wanted to “do something” for the estate.

Versailles was originally a hunting lodge (indicated by the red portion in the model), then it was built out (yellow portion), then *really* built out when the king and queen moved from what is now the Louvre out “to the country.” The square building to the front left was built specifically for people who wanted to live “near the king” – the rooms were *very* small and often shared, but if you wanted to be near the king, you wanted to be there. Below is Sylvan, and the entry chandelier that’s supposed to look like a necklace.

Versailles: First few rooms. Leann was quite taken by the ceilings. We learned a lot about the various residents.

Above, Leann was quite taken by the embossing behind the logs in each fireplace. Ahem – height difference – I never even saw them!

Here is a wee tidbit: The King (don’t ask us which one) loved to play croquet. But he had a bad back. So they raised the “playing field” as it were so that he didn’t have to bend down. Then they moved it inside. As there was less room, they shortened the area…and billiards was born. Don’t ask me if this is true – it’s what our guide said :-)

More folks with stories:

The first portrait is Marie Antoinette with her children. The son is pointing to the empty crib, which is where his younger sister (who died at 11 months, possibly of tuberculosis) “would have been.” The dauphin (son) lived a few years but then died of tuberculosis at age 10, he was survived by his brother (the baby) who ultimately died in captivity. The only one to live to adulthood is the daughter on the far left – she lived to 73, but was ?not allowed? to have children in case “royalists” wanted to rally behind her.

The next is the “homely queen” Maria Theresa, wife of Louis XIV. She was Spanish and brought black slaves with her, so suddenly black slaves became “all the rage.” She died at age 44 from complications due to an abscess on her arm; she was “the object of pity” in the court not only because her children died young, but also because of her husband’s many mistresses.

Top right is Mari Josepha of Saxony, who was brought in at age 21 to marry the 15 year old dauphin. The had 10 kids in their first 10 years of marriage, then “closed the door” when he was 15. The dog in the portrait represents loyalty; the flowers her beauty. She was 44 here; he was known for the number of mistresses he had. He is represented by the statue – likely because by that time, she didn’t want to see him in person (ha ha)

Next row on the left is the brother of the one at the bottom row, the king, who was famed for his “pretty dancing legs” and having killed all the wolves in France (represented by the wolf pelt on his saddle). “His great and sole vice was women.” The first brother was considered enormously fat, the other exceptionally slim (which our guide said was attributed later to a tapeworm – yes, he did say that).

The great-great grandfather of all these Louises (how do you pluralize “Louis”? Hm!) was Louis X, who his son had canonized. He basically “told the Pope” to do it, and he did. (There was a LOT of “conspiring” that went on with the Catholic Church and the French Monarchy – we learned a lot about that.) St. Louis is the patron saint of hairdressers and groomers. When you look at the hair of these guys, you can kind of understand. :-)

Middle portrait is Marie Antoinette’s mom, Maria Theresa of Austria. She had a billion kids and married them off to all the royal heads of Europe (16 children in 19 years). The bust is Marie Antoinette again (let’s make no comments about the bust-less head as it were).

Rooms, rooms, rooms…And one o’them Louises with That Hair (oooooh, ahhhhhh)…

There was also a horse-related show going on (again, more on these maybe tomorrow). The two small oils (the cougar on the back of the horse, and the palamino-colored horse) are by Gerricault – who you saw at Pere Lachaise. (He was sitting up on top of his grave with a palette and paintbrush in hand, and the side of his monument had one of his well-known paintings on it in bronze).

Below (on the red saddle) you see Lady Godiva. Her legend dates from the 12th century, but really comes to the fore in the 19th century, largely thanks to Lord Tennyson’s 1840 poem, which elevated this local Coventry figure to the rank of a national legend. The young woman’s husband promised to withdraw the tax threatening to starve the people if she rode naked through the city on horseback. Out of respect, the inhabitants of Coventry kept their shutters closed. Only the figure of “Peeping Tom” secretly watched Godiva, and his name became synonymous with “voyeur” in English. When she finished her ride through the city, her husband rescinded the tax as promised and the Lady went on to embody, paradoxically, virtuous self-sacrifice. Rather than depicting her in the traditional sidesaddle pose, John Collier composed a figure with relaxed legs and feet, with a calm expression.

Above, the portrait of the Prince on the horse with the crazy mane is by Sustermans; it’s a portrait of a young Medici son. Sustermans was the official portraitist to the Court of the Grand Duke of Tuscany from 1620 to his death in 1681. The square format is unusual, but the horse is what sets it apart. Prince Leopoldo de Medici was only seven. The horse is the true protagonist of the painting. The Andalusian’s coat is accentuated by the lighting, and its long, luxuriant, carefully “coiffed” mane. The extravagant horse in its extravagant parade gear, combined with the young Prince in exotic garb, reflected the stratospheric status of the Medici family. (It’s under glass, hence the glare unfortunately.) Below – Perseus, on Pegasus, with Medusa’s head. This oil was *huge*!

More rooms…Bedrooms of the king/queen – they had special “going to bed” and “waking up” ceremonies, where dozens of folks would just stand around outside of the short “wall” for them to do it. The queen’s bedroom had a small disguised door so she could “sneak out” and visit her children.

In the middle, on the right, of this set of photos you see a portrait on the ceiling of a lady in waiting yawning, head on hand, waiting for the queen to get up. :-)

The photo where I couldn’t “carve out” the people is as you walk into the Hall of Mirrors. I try to “strategically” take photos – H was a *master* at that. So our photos of places where there were literally hordes of other visitors – Ta Prohm, for example – it looks like we were the only ones there. I aim for that aesthetic.

After our tour of the buildings, as I mentioned, Leann and I were the only ones to carry on with the garden tour. We had great timing, because we were ahead of the large number of folks that we could see queuing up at the gate waiting to get in, both to the buildings, and to the garden.

The trees that you see in the boxes above are fruit trees. They are pulled into the “Orangerie” building during the winter, and taken out on sunny days.

The building you see in the distance in the picture to the left is actually a mile away, but the water is slightly shaped like a “V” away from you so that the perspective didn’t make it get smaller.

That building was a pop-up for the Equestrian Olympics. Have to say – had it not been for Leann being enormously allergic to horses, I would have liked to go check that area out. As I’m typing this, in fact, I’m watching the show jumping – it’s just SPECTACULAR. As 2028 will be in L.A., I definitely would like to catch it there – I did see part of the eventing last time it was in L.A. and it was really unbelievable. (I remember a downhill water obstacle that got a LOT of the horses.)

In the photo, you can see the boats that can be rented to tool around on the water. That area is the “park” that is “outside” the actual Versailles gardens.

The park is maintained by the City of Versailles; Versailles’ buildings and gardens are maintained by a private consortium.

This next set of photos tells the story of when one of the Giants, who were descendants of Gaia, challenged Zeus for supremacy of the cosmos. (Their younger brother, Typhon, is also well known for this and is one of the deadliest creatures in Greek Mythology, but is known as a “serpentine giant” so this likely does not represent him. He, also, was defeated by Zeus’ thunderbolt though and was buried under Mt. Etna). This giant was buried by Zeus in lava at Vesuvius; his writhings cause the earthquakes and eruptions.

Next set of photos is the grotto of Apollo. This is where we learned a bit about the Garden’s plumbing.

Basically it’s “the same as it ever was.” But when the king lived here and went for his walks (he always walked for an hour or two daily in the gardens), his entourage would whistle to indicate that the king was coming that direction. Then, the servants near whatever feature that was would turn the water on.

There isn’t enough pressure for the water to run in all the water features, all at once.

When we walked past the Apollo grotto the first time, Sylvan asked the docent what time the water would be on. She said “sixteen” meaning 4:00 p.m. That was about 20 minutes later – though Sylvan had bid us “Adieu,” Leann and I headed back to see the grotto in all its glory. The water is on for I believe Sylvan said 7 minutes. (When we were leaving, a guy was jog-trotting towards the grotto with about 25 seconds ‘til it went off, we were wondering if he was trying to catch it.)

The king always had music playing as he was walking. They have rigged up invisible speakers in the various trees so as you’re walking, you honestly think that you will walk into a Baroque ensemble around the next corner. It’s quite amazing. Leann and I were doing “Marco Polos” (if you’re not our Friends, you’re SO losing out!) as we were walking, and in each area, a different “ensemble” was playing “just around the corner” :-) It really *really* did sound like live music.

Above, fountains representing Summer (with the sickle and wheat), Spring, Poseidon, Apollo (love that one). I have an analog photo of the Spring fountain from when I visited Versailles when I was 22 – perhaps I will scan it and insert it when I get home. Okay and a sculpture representing Afrique – with a lion licking her foot. :-) I am having trouble uploading some other photos from the garden, so I am giving up for now! I have another of the pair of Poseidon sculptures – this one with the narwhal got us to have a bit of a funny chat about different French words, plus English (or French) pronunciations of French (or English) words. To the French, saying “hungry” and “angry” comes out the same – which can be a tough one. In French, the words for “horses” and “hair” (chevaux and cheveux) are so close you have to be careful – but to the French it’s “unbelievable” you’d miss those two up. We had a laugh about the sound in French, pronounced “vair” – which can mean a glass, a squirrel pelt, a worm, “towards,” a window….there were 8 different meanings, I just can’t remember them all – and they really do sound alike. Sylvan explained that the story of Cinderella was misunderstood by the English, because the slippers that she was supposed to fit into were made of the (very bougie) squirrel pelt, NOT glass. The idea of trying to fit into a glass slipper makes the French laugh, because who would do such a thing? It basically was a kind of mink (which makes a lot more sense, if you think about it).

We ultimately bid “adieu” to Sylvan and took the train back from Versailles. We decided not to go back to the hotel before heading back out for beach volleyball. We therefore got off at the Eiffel Tower train station, and were immediately met by a horde of thousands. (Waiting on the nail-biter end of the cycling race.) We were definitely hot and tired, but were able to find a cute cafe, where we got *delicious* chicken/ mushroom galettes, citron presse, and water water water. Right as we were finishing, Laura and Alex and her family walked past – totally fortuitous. We were supposed to find a way to meet them for dinner, but they got stuck on the other side of the cycling, and we weren’t even sure that we could explain where the cafe was. Great luck!

And now – some Eiffel Tower photos. It was a truly gorgeous night. Leann and I kept taking photos of the Tower in the sunset – so I picked through about 50 to get to these ones! We were watching the beach volleyball to *get* into the quarter finals. In one of the photos you can see the elevators, that go up the leg (sideways) and then up the tower. We also saw quite a few folks taking the stairs; just for the “privilege” of that was about 30 euros and QUITE the queue. Nope.

Men’s beach volleyball was first, Brazil v Netherlands. Brazil trounced them.

The guy who raped the 12 year old when he was 20 (and served 4 years in jail) is one of the pair playing. Every – single – time he would touch the ball, the audience Boo’d LOUDLY.

While I understand that he “Did his time…” it’s not like he robbed a bank or oh, say, was found guilty of on 34 criminal counts of falsifying business records. He raped. A twelve. Year old.

I felt *super* bad for his teammate though. At least they didn’t boo him.

The tall Brazilian was *tall* – 6’11”!!

The women’s match was a serious nail biter between the USA and Italia.

The U.S. won the first – Italy the second – then a “tie breaker” that the U.S. did win.

By the end, every time the ball was hit (usually 3 hits per side), the Italians were shouting I-tal-ia! Followed by U—S—A!!

We had Italians sitting behind us – and – get this – our friend Leslie spied us on NBC and sent us a screen capture!

I have video of the twinkling Tower just like I did of us singing at Rowing, etc. – don’t think that this hotel has enough “oomph” to get them to upload. Hopefully I can annotate when I get home.

What do you have to look forward to tomorrow? Our amazing Marais Tour with Hannah from The Earful Tower. (If you don’t know this podcast you really should check it out – it’s great.) And then? Butterfly water. 10 hours of blogging and photo wrangling though so for now… Peace, out!

Day 9 – lorsqu’on ne tuera plus ils seront bien venges le seul voyeur de justice a pour echo la vie & Day 10 – Sweet Caroline, Rowing plus Pizza

From the Holocaust/resistance portion of Pere Lachaise Cemetery

when they will no longer be killed, they will be well avenged, the only wish for justice has for its echo, Life

I happen to be posting this blog on “Day 10,” because I have had a heck of a time uploading photos. And there are some great photos from Day 9!

We had a *serious* heat lightening storm between days 8 and 9 – the first photo below shows where Leann caught a tiny bit of the lightening up on the right – which ended in a DELUGE of rain. Watching from our hotel room, we saw some people scurrying with their hands/a bag/etc. over their heads – but others were just laughing and walking and shaking their heads. As we heard from a gal we met on the Metro – if you want new weather, wait 10 minutes in the Summer in Paris.

We did do a number of “bed picnics” :-) Today we had a delicious Tour d’Argent boulangerie breakfast (see “sac,” below).

Afterwards, we headed for the Metro to go to Pere Lachaise Cemetery. The photo below of the lock on the old-style Metro door is to show you that, unlike The Tube in London where we were told by our guide not to hit the button and “look like tourists” (the door opens anyway), and unlike the new Metro cars, where you *do* need to hit the button, if you want out, you need to crank the handle on the door clockwise after the car stops, and the door will pop open.

We spent a bit more time than we meant to in the morning trying to decide how to plan our day. We had imagined heading to the Arch de Triomphe area, but the streets are closed, and it would have been a pain to try to get around some of the issues. We opted for Pere Lachaise, which is nowhere near anything else – perfect for a day when we wanted to do a long excursion.

The photos that I will insert (with descriptions – natch) will not be in the “order” we found them in the cemetery. Unfortunately due to the blogging software, they’re going to be in the order that they’re uploading. We were very lucky that, at the side entrance we walked through, there were two volunteers handing out paper maps with some of the “better known residents” already marked. We had a few more that we personally wanted to find. But – hello – this is a HUGE cemetery. Lots of cobblestoned paths, stairs, streets, etc.

Pere Lachaise has over 70,000 burial plots on over 106 acres; it apparently is the most visited necropolis in the world.

Although Pere Lachaise has lots of ‘celebrity’ graves, some of the most memorable ones commemorate people who have faded from the public eye. But their funerary art is quite spectacular.

On top of a grave marked “Remina Maggiori” is a beautiful bronze statue created in Florence by well-known Italian sculptor and painter Marcelo Tommasi. She has a lovely, contagious smile that exudes joy. She is in Division 60.

This is French actor Fernand Arbelot (1880-1942). Belgian sculptor Adolph Wansart immortalized him lying in his tomb holding a mask representing his grieving wife (note tears dripping from her eyes). Supposedly he designed this so he could gaze at her through eternity, though (perhaps inevitably in a country with a strong death-by-guillotine history) it could be considered macabre; his fixed stare might also remind one of Sting’s 1983 hit “Every Breath You Take (I’ll Be Watching You)” which does make it a bit more creepy. Division 11.

To the left is the tomb of Louis-Sebastian Gourlot (1778-1816). Nothing is known about M. Gourlot, but this striking stone and gold-tinted plaster statue representing his grieving widow stands out among the greys of the other memorials. Division 11.

Below is the Lebrun and Lhenoret Family Tomb.

Several members of the family are buried here, but what is notable is that the architect-sculptor Marcel Rouillere was told to avoid traditional forms of funerary art – which he did.

He created the sculpture around 1905-09; it embodies the flowing organic forms of Art Nouveau. Division 1.

The Moreau-Vauthier Monument at right is topped by a bronze of a grieving woman.

It is signed “A. Moreau Vauthier,” who was most likely French sculptor Augustin Jean Moreau Vauthier (1831-1893), father of Paul Moreau-Vauthier (1871-1936), creator of the Paris Commune victim war memorial.

There are over a dozen family members in this tomb, including Augustin Jean and Paul. Division 14.

(Please excuse the spacing of the text and photos – something is wonky with the blog today)

Next is a bronze sculpture of another sorrowful woman (there are a lot of them in this cemetery) on the tomb of Leon Philippe Beclard (1821-1864).

She holds a picture of the deceased.

M. Beclard died in Tangier, Morocco while serving as Minister of Finance for Napoleon III. Division 4.

Above is the tomb of Belgian novelist and poet Georges Rodenbach (1855-1898). He emphasized the interplay of romance and tragedy in his novels, and was well known for his “fin de siecle symbolism.” Perhaps therefore it’s not much of a surprise to see his bronze likeness bursting out of his tomb, holding a rose. His epitaph: “Lord, give me this hope to live again in the melancholy eternity of the book.” Division 15.

Here is the tomb of Oscar Wilde (1854-1900). Just as he was gaining success and popularity, Mr. Wilde was convicted by a British court of “gross indecency with men” and sentenced to two years of hard labor. Upon his release he fled to France, where he remained in exile until he died of meningitis three years later. His Egyptian-themed tomb was created by sculptor Jacob Epstein. It has sustained damage through the years after so many visitors had kissed the monument that, in cleaning it, the stone began to degrade (yes, really). A glass barrier was erected in 2011 but, as you can see, it’s only been partially effective. There is a sign that asks you not to kiss, as the cleaning “is not paid for by the cemetery, it must be charged to the family.” Division 89.

Next, Jim (James Douglas) Morrison (1943-1971): American singer/songwriter and lead singer for The Doors. He died in Paris at age 27 when an international rock star, likely of a heroin overdose. His girlfriend Pamela Courson found his body in the bathtub in their Marais apartment. His grave is one of the most visited. When we dropped by we had to wait 5 minutes for Leann’s phone to unlock itself; a young guy standing at the grave looked unbelievably bereft and just didn’t move the entire time, with other visitors snapping quick selfies and onto the next. This guy was in his 20s – born far after Morrison died. A bronze plaque on the tombstone has Morrison’s full name, birth/death dates, and a phrase chosen by his father: “Kata Ton Daimona Eautou” which means “true to his own spirit” (or “demons”). Division 6.

They have wrapped the tree where people leave chewing gum as a memento (e-yew). The gum was killing the tree. Again – e-yew.

Marcel Marceau (1923-2007): We went here because Leann is afraid of mimes. (I texted her a photo back – she waited on a bench.) You can have her tell you the story (which involves being chased by a mime at age 5). M. Marceau’s persona was “Bip the Clown.” However, something I certainly did not know was (1) he was Jewish, and (2) he was a renowned member of the French Resistance during the Nazi occupation of France during World War II. He helped rescue/save uncounted children from being deported to concentration camps. How did he keep them quiet? He did all his clowning…in silence. Yep – mimed.

Victor Noir (1848-1870)’s tomb (below) is one of the most visited. He was a journalist killed by Prince Pierre Bonaparte, nephew of Napoleon and cousin of Emperor Napoleon III.

A dispute between two newspapers, including the one where Noir worked, escalated and led to a fight that ended with the Prince calling Noir and his colleagues “menials,” slapping Noir in the face, and then shooting him dead (!) (Anger management issues, much?)

When a court acquitted the Prince of murder, violent demonstrations took place. Nine months later, the Emperor’s unpopular regime was overthrown during the Franco-Prussian War.

Sculptor Jules Dalou created the realistic life-sized bronze sculpture of Noir, to appear as though he had just fallen in the street, shot dead by Bonaparte.

The bulge in his trousers has made his grave very popular, due to the legend that rubbing it can provide fertility, cure to male “issues,” etc. His bullet hole also is also highly polished (we liked that someone added a boutonnière), as is his nose/mouth/chin and his boots.

And now, some graves we know nothing about, but that were quite striking. You’ll see the (huge) memorial of a young boy who “was loved by his dog,” more sorrowing women, a woman where rubbing her nipples is obviously a thing (the look on her face is a bit priceless given this), a mom mourned by her two young girls, M. Peretti star dancer of the Paris Opera (1905-1997), an unknown soldier where a little girl is writing his epitaph (“France remembers you” is (almost) finished), lovers “reunited” in death (their hands clasped above their headstones), etc.

More? Another woman beloved by her dog…A cemetery cat…some path photos…renowned artist Gericault…a woman who designed and put up her memorial but isn’t dead yet (yes, really – see her photo to the side of the white marble figure, in the dress sculpted?)…a man holding a guy emoting in what looks a bit like Cirque de Soleil kit (perhaps he was an actor?)…a ?writer? that we just thought looked like he’d be a blast to chat with….a pelican…a tomb opened up (and police taped) where you could see down about 15 feet, to the “shelves” where the caskets would have been stacked on top of one another into the grave (not sure where the caskets were)…an abandoned crypt of a Princess….a newly cleaned memorial of a mother and baby, which looked creepy encased in its plastic….a stern grave guardian…stained glass in an opened mausoleum with debris in it, but still containing the image in glass of the “inhabitant” buried in the 1800s…another princess/countess abandoned…a general brandishing a sword long ago stolen…a newly interred grave with bouquets of scented roses and tuberose…

I did find a place to leave a Herbert marble. La Memoire Necropolitaine. (I tried to pitch it in so that it would rest in the “V” under the plinth – Herbert had other ideas and it rolled all the way to the end then fell on the ground under the plinth.) You can scan the QR Code to find out more about it. It represents the work of two photographers, Anne Fuard and Andre Chabot, who have taken over 250,000 photos in cemeteries, to memorialize them, their “times,” etc. and give “a future to our past.” It was built into an abandoned chapel from 1850, topped by a pelican (my bird totem). The chapel once held the remains of a Ms. Kutsch, a member of the Austrian family who invented, in the late 18th century, the “Kutsh,” a type of ruler in the shape of a Toblerone bar that allows reading distances directly on a map. With film hanging off the barrier and film canisters clustered around a huge camera, the Austrian “heritage,” etc. it seemed like a perfect spot.

Now, for some really moving monuments. They represent the camps that Jews, children, resistance fighters, etc. were sent to. Auschwitz, Dachau, Mauthausen, etc. (The metal one is particularly children.) Note all the stones that have been left. If you didn’t know, you leave a stone at a Jewish grave, to demonstrate that the person buried has not been forgotten. When others notice the stones, they might take an interest in the person buried there too, making that person live on in them, too.

Whew, that just took about 5 hours to upload/write. As I have been asked a few times, YES, we are here to go to the Olympics. We went to our first venue, Men’s Finals in Trampoline, at the end of this day. It was amazing! We cheered. We gasped. (In the final medal round, a couple of the guys jumped off the apparatus – one at his 10th/final routine. Gah!) Okay, and we had a lovely meal at “our” Cafe, splitting the amazing burger with onion chutney (ya’ll have seen a photo of that), Cobb salad, and French onion soup that was *ah-may-zing.* (Not salty. Just enough cognac.) I had a Suze which I was quite sure Leann would gag at, and yes, she did. A mother’s intuition ha ha. She had a pina colada.

Day 10 – Rowing! (New Edit)

I know that this is an enormous blog post – and of course, seeing the Rowing finals for the men’s and women’s A, B and C singles (called “skiffs” in French) and the women’s and men’s 8s was to be a highlight.

It was.

After we got there.

Leann piloted us via Metro and Train to the correct station (helped by the pink carpet and the “pink finger folks” urging us on)…then we had at least a 2 mile walk (definitely 25 minutes) to the venue….! (Photos below – blog being recalcitrant and not letting me insert interstitially)

Men’s C singles U.S.A came in #1. Yay team!

The women’s scull from the Netherlands named after Laura, a gal on the MRA B’s, came in first by a *long* way. Yay, Laura!

We sang “Sweet Caroline” (dum-dum-DUM) with 1,000s of our besties (we sang a French song about the Champs Elysees last night at the Trampoline). HERE is a link if you have Facebook (I also posted some of the race videos on my page there).

USA women’s 8 came in 5th, USA Men’s 8 took Bronze. (The rower cheering behind us had taken Gold the day before for the U.S. and was there to cheer the other guys on.)

I took a lot of video that I posted to my rowing gang, so not 100% sure I can share it here. (The most fun part, frankly, is the “Sweet Caroline”.)

The Ament family came back to our hotel and we were able to squeak under the “deadline” of the highly-rated pizza place next door – and it was definitely great! (They’re closed 2-7 pm which is basically when Leann and I kept trying to go.)

Leann braved the market alone (I was working on this) and got us breakfast for tomorrow, and *the cutest* little baby outfit for a friend’s baby daughter.

Two photos, then I’m done. The first is of very well dressed “Minions” handing out the medals at the awards ceremony. The second is the guy making potato brochettes at the Rowing venue. NOM NOM. Time for bed! Might have some photos and maybe a video to add tomorrow. But then again – I might not :-)

Step Count for yesterday: 18,592. Today’s: 14,359. Did have a foot issue this morning, but only because I was too embarrassed to ask for the Aments to slow down when walking back to the train. I have no pain if I take slow, about half-strides, which Leann finds comical as she “practiced” long strides at home to keep up with me :-)

ADDED PHOTOS (yes, it’s now “the next morning”):

And finally, some of Leann’s photos from yesterday – Laura’s boat for the win; launching the women’s 8; women’s medal ceremony (and Canadians rowing their boat back in their sweats with their medals on); Phryges; British audience member decked out in his boater, rowing jacket, and rowing tie; more potato brochette photos; pizza! (Once again having blog problems so it won’t let me re-order them . . . Suffice it to say . . . Audience or Road shots -> Launching -> Rowing -> Medals -> Potato spiral brochette -> Pizza ;-)

Final edit on this is today (August 4th) – we are to Versailles, then beach volleyball at the base of the Eiffel Tower :-) Probably another ton of photos!

Day 8 – Il n’est rien de plus serious que le plaisir

There is nothing more serious than pleasure.

Before anything, it’s the first of the month: “Rabbit!”

Today we decided to have breakfast downstairs at our hotel. We have still been unable to get the Nescafé in our room to work, so having coffee/tea was a relief :-) They had a really nice spread, with croissants, pain au chocolat, fresh blueberry or lemon breads, baguettes, cheese/meats, yogurts, fresh fruit, fresh squeezed juice, etc.

We had slept in, with the idea that we would catch a taxi to Le Tour d’Argent just before our reservation, and then do a bit of walking (waddling?) after. Our taxi driver told us that Notre Dame is slated to be opened in December, and the Pope will come to re-consecrate it for Christmas! (How’s that for a little inside tidbit.)

We still wound up at the door 15 minutes early, but took some photos of the outside of the restaurant, plus of the cute little cafe that a restaurant had set up on the bridge across from Le Tour (Notre Dame/cranes in the background).

The Tour has been reconfigured since I was last there. I suppose every 20 years a restaurant should be allowed to change (ha ha). We sat in a lovely bar in the front waiting for the restaurant to seat us. I was happy? relieved? to see that a guy who had come in with a shirt and (black) jeans was made to put on a jacket. (No tie though – it was lunch, after all.)

We were given an “amuse bouche” in the bar of cold hibiscus-based tea, plus wee balls of a flash-frozen ?yogurt? enrobed celeriac “bomb.” (NOTE: I will be receiving a list of the exact menu of both the food and the wine, so this will be edited after I receive it.)

I bit into it first, and immediately said “you’re not going to be happy,” because Leann is not a huge celery lover. It was okay though :-) She said that her grandmother had had glasses with very similar etching on them. I mentioned perhaps it was time to get them out and serve hibiscus tea in them :-)

We headed upstairs to the restaurant after an exceedingly short wait, and were seated at a table at the window. We marveled at the Seine below and the various barges and boats doing their business (and the cranes at Notre Dame, too). The first amuse bouche were cheese and peanut bombs, which (of course) I could not eat.

The garçon looked concerned when I reminded them that I had (twice) listed my fish and peanut allergy, which they had confirmed via email. They headed back to the maitre d’, who looked at our table, looked at a book, looked mad at himself…and sent the sommelier to give me more champagne. They could not easily give me a different amuse bouche, but after the next amuse bouche course (during which Leann received two “small bites” that did contain fish), the two fish-related “main” courses from the Chef’s Tasting Menu were replaced.

My amuse bouche (shown at the right) was an onion-chutney “taco-ish” thing (Leann had that too – her favorite), a torched corn one, and a carrot-citron one, with a spicy quinoa “pie” on the wee brick. Leann had some sort of fish stuffed in a green olive where I had the corn, and a “fish pie” where I had the quinoa one. As I mentioned above, I will be replacing this seriously lacking description once I receive the menu from the Tour :-)

We had blanc de blancs champagne with these wee courses, and then I told the sommelier that I would have the wine course with the pairings, but that Leann would just have tastes of mine. (My sweet lightweight daughter LOL.) Once again, I will receive specifics on the wine choices in an email.

When I was at the Tour in my 20s with my then-boyfriend, the sommelier came to the table with a leather bound, hand written book containing all the wines in their cellar. I wrote a story a long, long time ago (when I was in my 40s and came back to Paris) about this experience, and how the Texan sitting next to us grabbed the wine book from the sommelier, who looked a bit apoplectic (“This book has not left our gloved hands for 200 years!”), asking whether they didn’t have any “California wine in there.”

Now, each table receives their own wine cellar list and can choose from it, either by the glass to pair with a course, or by the bottle. Every wine is in it – even the stratospherically-priced ones that have been in the cellar since the 1800s. I did tell the sommelier that I had passed the sommelier ranking, but that he should choose the wine pairings for the courses. I watched what he chose for me versus what he chose for another table, and “as promised” by my teachers, I received a different pairing than the “usual one.”

The next course was a cold soup that was very green and refreshing. I remember white truffle oil. It was paired with a white wine, and I’m just embarrassed to say that once they told me we would be receiving that email, I didn’t write anything down. I do remember that it had a honeyed nose, but on the tongue it had more of a gravel taste. Very interesting. Worked fantastically with the soup. I had Leann take a taste before having a bite, then after having a bite, to see how the flavors changed.

Our next course would have been a fish course; instead, we received the most amazing “egg bomb.” No, really. Amazing. It was a huge egg, that cut open to the perfectly runny yolk. I’m a bit unclear what sort of egg it was, but I tend to think duck or goose. Around the outside were garlic flowers, tiny Parmesan squares that exploded in your mouth when you got one, baby “rocket” (arugula), and zucchini and yellow squash shaved so thin you could see through them. The “sauce” was also (I think) zucchini-based, but we had no idea what the “green enrobing” over the egg was. Leann commented that in watching “The Bear,” she really now understood that every single morsel was placed exactly with tweezers. I told her the story of getting the chef’s table in the kitchen at Meadowood for Herbert’s 40th, and how the chef would examine not only each plate going out (“Yes, Chef!”), but also any plate that came back in with even a morsel of food left on it (“No, Chef!”)

The wine was a dry reisling. Yes, yes, I’m seriously embarrassed not to have written it all down as I usually do in my tasting book. <sigh> I did take a “potty break” at this moment, and Leann was quite impressed that a garçon came running to fold my napkin. :-)

The following course on the Tasting Menu was another fish course, but we were really lucky to instead receive their foie gras. The waiter explained that this was The Three Emperors’ foie gras. (I’ve linked the story.) We received a seriously healthy portion (I think that the two tables next to us were jealous). It came with a gorgeous warm brioche, a port-reduction, and then a black truffle-related gelee and “the yellow one” (which we liked best). What a treat – !!! Now you’re going to ask me if it was served with a Sauternes, and I will tell you – nope. Something better. And nope – I can’t tell you what it was.

Next, of course, was the thing that The Tour is known for (well, except for the Three Emperors’ foie gras) – their pressed duck. Each diner receives the number of their duck on a special card. (These cards were specially-embossed for the Olympics.) Ours was #1187845 (the numbers started in 1890). The mini salad that accompanied the duck was just out of this world. I can’t wait to find out the ingredients :-) The only way I can explain it is as if it had a base of nopalitos, with that fresh/citrus-type flavor when you bit into the thickish “leaf.” I do know that the crunchy “curl” was mango. Let’s say for the tenth time how much I’d like to have that menu/wine email right this second . . .

Well let me take your mind off it . . . Speaking of the Olympics (I did – a sentence or three ago), just like Claude Terrail had had Notre Dame lit after the end of World War II because his windows were sad without it, The Tour had had a special dining experience both in the restaurant and on the roof for the Opening Ceremony.

The maitre d’ told us that the Moulin Rouge dancers had performed directly across the water from the restaurant, and then came to be with the guests. Perhaps this was the doing of Andre, Claude’s son, who now runs the restaurant? (Andre did come table to table – he was fine, but the maitre d’, who had worked for Claude, mentioned that Claude actually made each table feel like he knew them personally. I will 100% agree with this – that is how it was when we ate there in our 20s.)

After the duck, we opted to have the cheese course. An *enormous* wheel of Comte was waiting patiently in the corner for someone to desire it. :-) It was brought to our table, and the woman in the picture to the right exercised her biceps to cut us 5 large shavings. We were getting pretty stuffed by this time, so Leann and I took the three smallest, then (ahem) I ?hid? the remaining 2 in the case for my sunglasses ;-)

Yes, yes I did. And yes, we visited the Tour d’Argent boulangerie, and obtained a baguette so that we could have a “picnic” dinner with the Comte, which I am eating now for dinner!

The cheese was followed by a “palate cleanser” made up of a crisp lime and basil “top” (a bit like what you’d break through for a crème brûlée), covering a zingy lime sorbet. Very delicious!

And then, the “actual” dessert, a raspberry deliciousness that I, once again, cannot tell you exactly what it was made up of, but tweezers were definitely involved and how, how delicious it was! The dessert was accompanied by four perfect, small truffles, each of which was an enormous explosion of chocolate goodness, “plus.” Leann and I had two different ones – my guess is hers had peanut butter in one, and then some sort of nut in the other. I do remember that one of mine was dark chocolate and raspberry, another was dark chocolate with some crunchy bits and gold on top, another was dark and darker chocolate, and another was (from memory) chocolate and strawberry.

At the end, Leann had a pot of tea, and I stymied the maitre d’ with my request for an espresso with a lemon peel twist. I gave the order to our waitress, who obviously thought she had mis-heard me. I explained it once again, making clear what I wanted. When she relayed it to the maitre d’, I saw him pick up his phone, out of the corner of my eye. Ah, Google! In French, it is an “espresso Romano,” and both he, and the waitress, said that between lunch and dinner, they would need to try it. It was pretty funny. (The maitre d’ actually brought it to our table to discuss it. That is when he told us about working for Claude Terrail.)

Sadly, all good things must end (and we couldn’t find a place for Herbert’s marble that I had in my pocket), and so we were escorted back down in the lift and bid “A bientot” (“See you soon”, versus Au Revoir – “Good bye”). We wish we had taken a photo of the lovely “doorman,” who looked like a gendarme with his silver “Tour” epaulettes, kepi, and long coat. He offered to call us a taxi, but we explained that we would be walking the Seine and visiting the bouquinistes. He said to come back when we needed that taxi. ;-)

We visited a number of the bouquinistes along the Seine, though many, many were closed. As I believe I mentioned before, the Mayor had tried to have them shut down during the Olympics – and (as we were told at Angelina) had also “surrounded” a number of the businesses with barriers. Leann and I commented ruefully that it was exceptionally difficult to get to some of the small businesses along the Seine for that reason. We’re not quite sure what Mme La Maire was thinking, but the Olympics certainly has not been great for *them*!

We really wanted to be sure to patronize the artists and sellers that were open, so we each purchased some etchings, etc. for gifts. We then went to the boulangerie of the Tour d’Argent to get a baguette (to have with our purloined Comte cheese tonight), plus a croissant for me and a pain chocolat for Leann for the morning…and that’s all she wrote!

Day 7 – Angelina, walk walk walk, Louvre, walk walk walk, Cafe, walk walk walk, Lunch, nap

We purchased vouchers for Angelina before we left. What is Angelina? It’s The Place to get hot chocolate in Paris. Their hot chocolate is pretty much like drinking a molten chocolate bar :-) If you purchase a voucher, you get a super secret email address to get a reservation.

The last time I was in Paris, the line to get into Angelina was basically ridiculous. This time? We could have walked right in, even without our reservation!

The waitress told us that the road closures have made this the worst time for the restaurant since COVID (!) This makes me sad. If you’re in Paris – to Angelina with you!

And, I can tell you that Angelina was “all that.” Nom nom! We were told to dip the croissants in the hot chocolate – it’s so thick, that it’s like having an ‘enrobed’ croissant. The last photo in this gallery is the saddest. LOL.

After ogling their pastries (we came back and purchased a few on our way home), we were off on our Walk.

It seems that most people are adopting the standard Parisian morning timing, because the streets were basically empty. We took a few photos of the Olympic “cauldron,” which is a combination of light and water. (When we walked past this area a few hours later, it was at least 10 people deep all along that fence. There was also a *huge* line to get into the Tuileries, which requires a ticket. That’s what the purple arches that say “Paris 2024” are for – they’re ticket scanners.)

Tonight we are supposed to have thunderstorms, so “la Vasque” will not “rise.” It is down during the day, but raises about 30 meters during the night, so that you can see it from all around Paris.

The Cauldron is right across from the Louvre. Our friend who we are meeting here in a few days purchased a visit to the Louvre, to go “for a couple hours” in between other events. Leann had asked me whether she should go with them. I put down a stern Mom Foot and said: “N-O.”

Once we got to the Louvre, there were a lot of Thank Yous from my little girl :-)

The Louvre is H-U-G-E. Yes, I know, you “know” how “big” it is.

No, you don’t (unless you’ve been here). The Louvre is enormous. The Louvre isn’t just the city-block-surrounding buildings, but it’s also the entire block, underground (yes, Paris is hollow :-) ). If you’re going to go to the Louvre, pick an area (any area), and head there (only there), and you’ll be there for a few hours. From memory, last time my Mom went to the Louvre, she spent her Time Of Overwhelm in an inner museum just displaying snuff boxes ( :-) )

The Mona Lisa is behind inches of bullet proof glass, you can’t stop, and it’s like 8×10. The winged Victory is at the top of a staircase early on. Do you really go to museums to “check off a box”? (I hope not.)

So instead, I took Leann around the outside of the Louvre, including the inner courtyard, and then out the back. There was a line to take a photo of the Olympic rings in front of the Pyramid . . . But once you were past them and around the back, crickets. (On the first photo below (ahem) I used the Magic Eraser on my phone to make the people disappear. But just that one! The rest are from “around back” of the Pyramid, in the further courtyard.)

I have a photo of her I took in my 20s :-) (I have been in Paris when 22, 42, and now 62!)

We went out the side arch in the back courtyard, and walked along the Seine to Notre Dame. The plywood surrounding the work that is still furiously going on has lots of the history, photos, etc. of the disaster and the rebuilding.

We even got to see a gargoyle flying into place!

From Notre Dame, we visited Messy Nessy, who has one of my favorite email “blogs” about Paris. Though when we had started the streets were pretty empty, the area around the Seine was definitely “crowding up.” A couple of streets in? No one.

We found a wonderful cafe, and had a huge liter of “gazeuse” water for Leann and a coffee for me. (Our coffee maker in the room isn’t working, sigh. So much for fancy dancy Nescafé.) I spent some time petting the cafe dog, named Swishy, because any time someone approached her, her tail wagged her entire body back and forth madly. :-)

We were one of three occupied tables.

(Get off the beaten path, folks! Oh wait – don’t – ‘cos we’ll be there…)

A “letter” we found on the side of a garbage bin, on the Seine. Leann looked up the author, who said that he was traveling around Europe, but was “sure” that the “Olympic Cleaning Committee” would clean off his letter before the Games. Nope! Thanks, Jay!

We walked back to Angelina to get our delicious pastries for “elevenses” and discovered that if you have your voucher/bill from eating inside, you get 10% off anything you purchase in the shop. Score!

Leann was able to find some chachkis for work friends and a T-shirt for herself. We had walked past a bouquiniste with some attractive art that she was going to purchase on the way to Notre Dame…On the way back, he had closed. As she always says to me – buy it when you see it! Hopefully when we go back down that direction tomorrow (we have our lunch at the Tour d’Argent) we will find him again.

Taxis in Paris are also on Uber and are, in fact, *cheaper* than the “unlicensed” drivers. This is kind of genius. Our driver had an ice cold cab (did I mention it is unbelievably hot and humid?) and was playing jazz. Yes!

The Team USA building (over $300 if you want to visit – no, a passport won’t get you in!) is about two blocks from our hotel.

We dropped our stuff off, and headed across the street to a Cafe that had gotten amazing reviews on TripAdvisor.

Once again – as our hotel is a bit off the beaten path – no wait. Indeed (as advertised) it was one of the best burgers and fries ever. Paired with a delicious green salad (and a glass of Prosecco), definitely a big win.

We shared the above pastries – on the left is a strawberry and cream lovely (that is a bit worse for wear from our gallivanting), and the “Mont-Blanc” – a meringue topped with “light” cream, and then chestnut “vermicelli.”

Back to our hotel room for a snooze – then to wrap up in our robes and slippers to upload the photos from the day. After eating our Angelina delights, time to write Ze Blog for ya’ll to share our day! HERE is a link to a lot of photos of our hotel – if you page through them, the “split queen” with the art that is a photo of a sculptural “frieze” with an angel is our room – the photos of the wood-“tiled” bathroom with the double sink is our sink. We were wondering about the rooms on the top floor – those are the ones pictured with the verandas, etc.! DEFINITELY lovely!!!! We didn’t take any photos in our room or hotel, so glad that I found these!

OH, and since you asked ( :-) ), here are our “step totals” from the beginning of our trip (from Leann’s Apple Watch):

July 27 (Saturday): 23,150

July 28 (Sunday): 7,729 (such slackers)

July 29 (Monday): 13,695

July 30 (Tuesday): 3,901 (train day)

July 31 (Wednesday) – today – Harry Potter’s birthday – 12,030

I’ll try to update this at the bottom of the blog post from now on :-) I am taping my foot and wearing my brace, but it’s amazing to me how great my bad foot is being. I’m relieved!