Spoiler Alert: Day 11: 21,142 steps.
Today (Day 12): 9,135 steps.
And our various “leg parts” feel it.
But, onward!
I’m definitely behind by a day. I thought I could do both Days 11 and 12 today, but I’ve been at this now for 8 hours and – yeah – nope. The good thing is that we don’t have anything “set” until tomorrow at 5:30 p.m., so I can hopefully not only annotate this one from my notes but also get the photos from today ready to go before that.
We did get up a bit later on Day 11, because our Versailles Tour (plus gardens) with GetYourGuide wasn’t until 12:30.
Just a small advertisement for GetYourGuide. When I was making reservations for this trip with the Amex Concierge, there were some tours that she could not book herself. She told me to go to GetYourGuide, as they were the tour outfit that the concierge’s “clients” had had the best luck with – good value for money, on-the-dime ability to swap dates/times (or get a refund), fantastic guides, etc.
We had our Versailles tour a couple of days from now, but we realized that because Versailles is a real haul out of town, we’d have to turn straight around and come back for the Olympics women’s skateboarding final. With just over 24 hours’ notice, I pulled up GetYourGuide and was able to swap out the date. It was so easy, I was sure I had done it wrong! However, I immediately received an email detailing our new tour, etc. It was straightforward and exceedingly simple. The guides we have had have all been uniformly great. The one tour that was “meh” was the Jack The Ripper tour, but (as I have stated before), since most of the “locales” where JTR hunted are gone, we don’t feel that any JTR tour is really worth it. Our *guide* for that tour, however, was exceptional.
So what are the delicious things that you see interspersed in this run-up to the write-up? A gal on TikTok that Leann follows had raved about a bakery – come to find out, it is a franchise, and one is across the street! (Yes, I have now told you about the pizza place, Cafe Central (the onion soup/burger/etc place), and now, this bakery – good hotel choice, eh?.)
We headed over – I got a coffee and an apple “fold-over,” Leann got the raspberry tart that the TikTok gal raved about. Well – NOM NOM NOM.
This franchise makes the “Crookiz” by rolling out croissant dough, putting chocolate chip cookie dough on top of that, and rolling it up. We actually got one today (Day 12) as a pick-me-up – a bit odd, in my opinion not as great as a cronut. But there you go.
Versailles! SO MANY PICTURES! Sylvan, our guide, was great and helped us to avoid the bulk of the tourists. There were maybe ten of us in the tour of the buildings, and then Leann and I were the only ones to carry on into the gardens.
On the way to Versailles, we saw the Eiffel Tour and the Flame in the air from off the side of the train, and thought we’d be able to take a photo on the way home – unfortunately, by that time the Flame was back down! :-(
Versailles: The entrance. Last time I was at Versailles the two things I remember were: (1) getting hot charcoal-brazed chestnuts right outside the train station to put in my pockets ‘cos it was so cold and (2) how black the buildings were. Come to find out that the gilding is new (at least, newer than 40 years ago), part of it paid for by a millionaire who was taken by Versailles and wanted to “do something” for the estate.
Versailles was originally a hunting lodge (indicated by the red portion in the model), then it was built out (yellow portion), then *really* built out when the king and queen moved from what is now the Louvre out “to the country.” The square building to the front left was built specifically for people who wanted to live “near the king” – the rooms were *very* small and often shared, but if you wanted to be near the king, you wanted to be there. Below is Sylvan, and the entry chandelier that’s supposed to look like a necklace.
Versailles: First few rooms. Leann was quite taken by the ceilings. We learned a lot about the various residents.
Above, Leann was quite taken by the embossing behind the logs in each fireplace. Ahem – height difference – I never even saw them!
Here is a wee tidbit: The King (don’t ask us which one) loved to play croquet. But he had a bad back. So they raised the “playing field” as it were so that he didn’t have to bend down. Then they moved it inside. As there was less room, they shortened the area…and billiards was born. Don’t ask me if this is true – it’s what our guide said :-)
More folks with stories:
The first portrait is Marie Antoinette with her children. The son is pointing to the empty crib, which is where his younger sister (who died at 11 months, possibly of tuberculosis) “would have been.” The dauphin (son) lived a few years but then died of tuberculosis at age 10, he was survived by his brother (the baby) who ultimately died in captivity. The only one to live to adulthood is the daughter on the far left – she lived to 73, but was ?not allowed? to have children in case “royalists” wanted to rally behind her.
The next is the “homely queen” Maria Theresa, wife of Louis XIV. She was Spanish and brought black slaves with her, so suddenly black slaves became “all the rage.” She died at age 44 from complications due to an abscess on her arm; she was “the object of pity” in the court not only because her children died young, but also because of her husband’s many mistresses.
Top right is Mari Josepha of Saxony, who was brought in at age 21 to marry the 15 year old dauphin. The had 10 kids in their first 10 years of marriage, then “closed the door” when he was 15. The dog in the portrait represents loyalty; the flowers her beauty. She was 44 here; he was known for the number of mistresses he had. He is represented by the statue – likely because by that time, she didn’t want to see him in person (ha ha)
Next row on the left is the brother of the one at the bottom row, the king, who was famed for his “pretty dancing legs” and having killed all the wolves in France (represented by the wolf pelt on his saddle). “His great and sole vice was women.” The first brother was considered enormously fat, the other exceptionally slim (which our guide said was attributed later to a tapeworm – yes, he did say that).
The great-great grandfather of all these Louises (how do you pluralize “Louis”? Hm!) was Louis X, who his son had canonized. He basically “told the Pope” to do it, and he did. (There was a LOT of “conspiring” that went on with the Catholic Church and the French Monarchy – we learned a lot about that.) St. Louis is the patron saint of hairdressers and groomers. When you look at the hair of these guys, you can kind of understand. :-)
Middle portrait is Marie Antoinette’s mom, Maria Theresa of Austria. She had a billion kids and married them off to all the royal heads of Europe (16 children in 19 years). The bust is Marie Antoinette again (let’s make no comments about the bust-less head as it were).
Rooms, rooms, rooms…And one o’them Louises with That Hair (oooooh, ahhhhhh)…
There was also a horse-related show going on (again, more on these maybe tomorrow). The two small oils (the cougar on the back of the horse, and the palamino-colored horse) are by Gerricault – who you saw at Pere Lachaise. (He was sitting up on top of his grave with a palette and paintbrush in hand, and the side of his monument had one of his well-known paintings on it in bronze).
Below (on the red saddle) you see Lady Godiva. Her legend dates from the 12th century, but really comes to the fore in the 19th century, largely thanks to Lord Tennyson’s 1840 poem, which elevated this local Coventry figure to the rank of a national legend. The young woman’s husband promised to withdraw the tax threatening to starve the people if she rode naked through the city on horseback. Out of respect, the inhabitants of Coventry kept their shutters closed. Only the figure of “Peeping Tom” secretly watched Godiva, and his name became synonymous with “voyeur” in English. When she finished her ride through the city, her husband rescinded the tax as promised and the Lady went on to embody, paradoxically, virtuous self-sacrifice. Rather than depicting her in the traditional sidesaddle pose, John Collier composed a figure with relaxed legs and feet, with a calm expression.
Above, the portrait of the Prince on the horse with the crazy mane is by Sustermans; it’s a portrait of a young Medici son. Sustermans was the official portraitist to the Court of the Grand Duke of Tuscany from 1620 to his death in 1681. The square format is unusual, but the horse is what sets it apart. Prince Leopoldo de Medici was only seven. The horse is the true protagonist of the painting. The Andalusian’s coat is accentuated by the lighting, and its long, luxuriant, carefully “coiffed” mane. The extravagant horse in its extravagant parade gear, combined with the young Prince in exotic garb, reflected the stratospheric status of the Medici family. (It’s under glass, hence the glare unfortunately.) Below – Perseus, on Pegasus, with Medusa’s head. This oil was *huge*!
More rooms…Bedrooms of the king/queen – they had special “going to bed” and “waking up” ceremonies, where dozens of folks would just stand around outside of the short “wall” for them to do it. The queen’s bedroom had a small disguised door so she could “sneak out” and visit her children.
In the middle, on the right, of this set of photos you see a portrait on the ceiling of a lady in waiting yawning, head on hand, waiting for the queen to get up. :-)
The photo where I couldn’t “carve out” the people is as you walk into the Hall of Mirrors. I try to “strategically” take photos – H was a *master* at that. So our photos of places where there were literally hordes of other visitors – Ta Prohm, for example – it looks like we were the only ones there. I aim for that aesthetic.
After our tour of the buildings, as I mentioned, Leann and I were the only ones to carry on with the garden tour. We had great timing, because we were ahead of the large number of folks that we could see queuing up at the gate waiting to get in, both to the buildings, and to the garden.
The trees that you see in the boxes above are fruit trees. They are pulled into the “Orangerie” building during the winter, and taken out on sunny days.
The building you see in the distance in the picture to the left is actually a mile away, but the water is slightly shaped like a “V” away from you so that the perspective didn’t make it get smaller.
That building was a pop-up for the Equestrian Olympics. Have to say – had it not been for Leann being enormously allergic to horses, I would have liked to go check that area out. As I’m typing this, in fact, I’m watching the show jumping – it’s just SPECTACULAR. As 2028 will be in L.A., I definitely would like to catch it there – I did see part of the eventing last time it was in L.A. and it was really unbelievable. (I remember a downhill water obstacle that got a LOT of the horses.)
In the photo, you can see the boats that can be rented to tool around on the water. That area is the “park” that is “outside” the actual Versailles gardens.
The park is maintained by the City of Versailles; Versailles’ buildings and gardens are maintained by a private consortium.
This next set of photos tells the story of when one of the Giants, who were descendants of Gaia, challenged Zeus for supremacy of the cosmos. (Their younger brother, Typhon, is also well known for this and is one of the deadliest creatures in Greek Mythology, but is known as a “serpentine giant” so this likely does not represent him. He, also, was defeated by Zeus’ thunderbolt though and was buried under Mt. Etna). This giant was buried by Zeus in lava at Vesuvius; his writhings cause the earthquakes and eruptions.
Next set of photos is the grotto of Apollo. This is where we learned a bit about the Garden’s plumbing.
Basically it’s “the same as it ever was.” But when the king lived here and went for his walks (he always walked for an hour or two daily in the gardens), his entourage would whistle to indicate that the king was coming that direction. Then, the servants near whatever feature that was would turn the water on.
There isn’t enough pressure for the water to run in all the water features, all at once.
When we walked past the Apollo grotto the first time, Sylvan asked the docent what time the water would be on. She said “sixteen” meaning 4:00 p.m. That was about 20 minutes later – though Sylvan had bid us “Adieu,” Leann and I headed back to see the grotto in all its glory. The water is on for I believe Sylvan said 7 minutes. (When we were leaving, a guy was jog-trotting towards the grotto with about 25 seconds ‘til it went off, we were wondering if he was trying to catch it.)
The king always had music playing as he was walking. They have rigged up invisible speakers in the various trees so as you’re walking, you honestly think that you will walk into a Baroque ensemble around the next corner. It’s quite amazing. Leann and I were doing “Marco Polos” (if you’re not our Friends, you’re SO losing out!) as we were walking, and in each area, a different “ensemble” was playing “just around the corner” :-) It really *really* did sound like live music.
Above, fountains representing Summer (with the sickle and wheat), Spring, Poseidon, Apollo (love that one). I have an analog photo of the Spring fountain from when I visited Versailles when I was 22 – perhaps I will scan it and insert it when I get home. Okay and a sculpture representing Afrique – with a lion licking her foot. :-) I am having trouble uploading some other photos from the garden, so I am giving up for now! I have another of the pair of Poseidon sculptures – this one with the narwhal got us to have a bit of a funny chat about different French words, plus English (or French) pronunciations of French (or English) words. To the French, saying “hungry” and “angry” comes out the same – which can be a tough one. In French, the words for “horses” and “hair” (chevaux and cheveux) are so close you have to be careful – but to the French it’s “unbelievable” you’d miss those two up. We had a laugh about the sound in French, pronounced “vair” – which can mean a glass, a squirrel pelt, a worm, “towards,” a window….there were 8 different meanings, I just can’t remember them all – and they really do sound alike. Sylvan explained that the story of Cinderella was misunderstood by the English, because the slippers that she was supposed to fit into were made of the (very bougie) squirrel pelt, NOT glass. The idea of trying to fit into a glass slipper makes the French laugh, because who would do such a thing? It basically was a kind of mink (which makes a lot more sense, if you think about it).
We ultimately bid “adieu” to Sylvan and took the train back from Versailles. We decided not to go back to the hotel before heading back out for beach volleyball. We therefore got off at the Eiffel Tower train station, and were immediately met by a horde of thousands. (Waiting on the nail-biter end of the cycling race.) We were definitely hot and tired, but were able to find a cute cafe, where we got *delicious* chicken/ mushroom galettes, citron presse, and water water water. Right as we were finishing, Laura and Alex and her family walked past – totally fortuitous. We were supposed to find a way to meet them for dinner, but they got stuck on the other side of the cycling, and we weren’t even sure that we could explain where the cafe was. Great luck!
And now – some Eiffel Tower photos. It was a truly gorgeous night. Leann and I kept taking photos of the Tower in the sunset – so I picked through about 50 to get to these ones! We were watching the beach volleyball to *get* into the quarter finals. In one of the photos you can see the elevators, that go up the leg (sideways) and then up the tower. We also saw quite a few folks taking the stairs; just for the “privilege” of that was about 30 euros and QUITE the queue. Nope.
Men’s beach volleyball was first, Brazil v Netherlands. Brazil trounced them.
The guy who raped the 12 year old when he was 20 (and served 4 years in jail) is one of the pair playing. Every – single – time he would touch the ball, the audience Boo’d LOUDLY.
While I understand that he “Did his time…” it’s not like he robbed a bank or oh, say, was found guilty of on 34 criminal counts of falsifying business records. He raped. A twelve. Year old.
I felt *super* bad for his teammate though. At least they didn’t boo him.
The tall Brazilian was *tall* – 6’11”!!
The women’s match was a serious nail biter between the USA and Italia.
The U.S. won the first – Italy the second – then a “tie breaker” that the U.S. did win.
By the end, every time the ball was hit (usually 3 hits per side), the Italians were shouting I-tal-ia! Followed by U—S—A!!
We had Italians sitting behind us – and – get this – our friend Leslie spied us on NBC and sent us a screen capture!
I have video of the twinkling Tower just like I did of us singing at Rowing, etc. – don’t think that this hotel has enough “oomph” to get them to upload. Hopefully I can annotate when I get home.
What do you have to look forward to tomorrow? Our amazing Marais Tour with Hannah from The Earful Tower. (If you don’t know this podcast you really should check it out – it’s great.) And then? Butterfly water. 10 hours of blogging and photo wrangling though so for now… Peace, out!
Incredible write up and photos!!! You da best!
Humming that song “I’m livin’ my best life…” :-)